Dim Headlight and Questions on Points

I recently bought an 82 KZ305b bobber style and have had a few problems.

The big thing is the bike's ignition sputters at higher rpms and if I let go of the throttle and try to re-engage it. My brother is convinced that it has something to do with the points system but I honestly dont even know what those are lol.

My other problem is I have a really dim headlight and was wondering if I need to replace the bulb or if I have a faulty ground or something.

Thanks for helpin Im kinda a noob to bike building so i appreciate the help

I'd get some electrical contact cleaner, and go through all the switches and electrical connectors. Some of the older bikes are suffering crumbled solder joints in the left and right handlebar switch "Pods".

Ignition points are usually behind a small cover at the end of the crankshaft. They need periodic cleaning and adjustment, as parts wear, and the "Condensors" or capacitors wear out.

I'd do this:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

1. Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website. It can be purchased at most Radio Shack Stores or any electronic supply places. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).

2. On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

3. Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

4. However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

5. Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

6. Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

7. Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

8. If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

9. The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. The older Kawasaki’s have reports of the soldered connections crumbling, if your bike has this problem, just ask, as I’ve got a repair procedure for this.

10. Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

11. The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

12. If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you, along with boating supply stores.

13. Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

14. All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

15. Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

16. If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation. Inspect all heavy duty battery cables and the smaller wire terminations(Bullet Connectors), for failed crimps, and those used in the electrical connectors, as they can fail over time.

17. Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

18. The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

20. The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

21. Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

22. Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “

From a forum member at www.kzrider.com


A good website for your bike: www.armbell.com/forum/index.php?c=17&sid...abf44d4&mforum=kz400

What's the condition of the battery? And is it the stock size?
I would check it w a digital multimeter.... the VC97 a decent inexpensive meter - available on ebbaayy.

A battery test I do is to check/adjust the electrolyte level if applicable (only add distilled water) & charge the battery: the beginning voltage should be at least 12.6 VDC but will be higher if the battery is good (~13.1 would be normal). Then turn on the high beam (engine Off). The voltage should start dropping, then slow significantly. A good battery will drop to around 12.2 or so. 11.8 VDC or thereabouts would be okay. If it drops to ~11 V, the battery may need replacing. If it drops to 10 VDC, then the battery is probably shot. The high beam test removes the surface charge & gives an indication of the battery's deep charge or something like that.

Your bike has a points ignition system & it has parts that require maintenance.... assuming it is a B1.
I don't know much about points. Most 80s models have electronic ignition.

Dan's MC Repair Course ...... Dan's MC - Points stuff

awesome thanks to both of u Ill have to check it out