1982 Ignition switch wiring

Hello everyone,

I'm new here as I just picked up a 1982 CSR 750 twin, I have no idea if it even runs, it was given to me. The old owner had it sitting around for a long time. The problem I'm having is that I want to try to get it running, but it has no key. There are a bunch of wires coming off of the back of the ignition switch. Before I spend any money on a new ignition switch and key for it, I would like to make sure it runs. Does anyone have any idea which wires I would jump in order to basically hotwire it to make sure it runs before I put any money other than fluids, etc into it.

Any help would be appreciated, I have searched all over the net and cant' find what I'm looking for


Thanks

John Jones
1982 CSR 750 Twin

johnjones750csr wrote: Hello everyone,

I'm new here as I just picked up a 1982 CSR 750 twin, I have no idea if it even runs, it was given to me. The old owner had it sitting around for a long time. The problem I'm having is that I want to try to get it running, but it has no key. There are a bunch of wires coming off of the back of the ignition switch. Before I spend any money on a new ignition switch and key for it, I would like to make sure it runs. Does anyone have any idea which wires I would jump in order to basically hotwire it to make sure it runs before I put any money other than fluids, etc into it.

Any help would be appreciated, I have searched all over the net and cant' find what I'm looking for


Thanks

John Jones
1982 CSR 750 Twin

Hello, John Jones, and WELCOME to KZrider!

Turning the ignition switch ON supplies the coil with positive battery voltage.

A "hot" wire may be connected from the battery positive to the coil primary terminal, but don't leave it hooked up longer than necessary, because that's like leaving the ignition switch turned on (which burns stuff up).





Good Fortune!

Basically is what I'm trying to do is bypass the keyed switch, if possible so I can see if I can't get this thing running. I've already got the carbs off of it and I'll be cleaning those tomorrow, they aren't too bad, only a little varnish in the bottoms of the bowls. The engine has good compression, I havnt' put a compression guage on the cylinders yet, but I can definatly feel the compression stroke with the kick starter. I would love to be able to bypass that key switch for the time being so I can get this thing running without burning anything up.

Thanks in advance.

You can do what Patton says to get the ignition working, however, do not rev the bike in that condition.

With the bike running in that condition, the alternator will be producing power, but the regulator will not limit the power to the battery. Since the lights will also not be on, the battery and ignition will have to absorb full charging system power with no regulation. This may be ok for a short time at idle, but it is definitely bad to rev it. Voltages could easily exceed 20v. This could potentially harm the battery and ignition.

If you want to hot wire it to ride, you must jump battery power to the ignition and power wire for the regulator. The easiest place to do that is at the ignition switch connector on the main harness. Jump the white wire to the brown wire, and the yellow wire. This will give you ignition (and kill switch), electric start, brake light, voltage regulation, and a few other minor circuits.

Thank you very much, I will do that tomorrow, I wont be riding it right away, but I will be messing with it to see if I can't get it running, also I have to get the carbs adjusted and that's another topic that I'm researching right now how to do. I dislike multi-carbs on cars and I'm sure it's gonna have it's own headaches on a bike too.

Thank you very much for the information both of you, it helps tremendously.

John Jones.

If you don't have a title, get that done before spending too much money on it. I've read here n there that in some states you have to pay past due registration fees or penalties.

oh, I fully plan on aquiring the title before I spend a bunch of money on it. Luckily I know the guy who used to own it and he just misplaced the title. The bike used to belong to my brothers father-in-law. So having him order a replacement title shouldn't be too big of a deal. A lot easier than having to go through the whole lost title BS if you dont know who the owner is.

John Jones

So I connected the Yellow, brown and white wires and the lights came on, the oil light lit up on the cluster, the right blinker worked,the left didn't. the headlight didn't come on though, it may be dead. So, I hit the starter buton "which I assume is on the right hand side by the throttle", and nothing, no clicks, no dimming of the lights, or anything. Any thoughts?

John Jones

The headlight should come on. Check the fuses for 12v while the wires are connected.
The headlight fuse is the 10A fuse with a blue wire and a blue/white wire.

To get the tail light to come on, you have to jump the blue/red wire to the red wire.

The starter should work, but you have to pull in the clutch lever. If not, the circuit to the starter relay won't complete. There is a small switch on the clutch lever. If you follow the wires into the harness, you may be able to bypass the switch by connecting the two wires together. I think they are black.

There is a wiring diagram for your bike in the file base:
1982 KZ 750 M1 twin.

I cleaned it up a little. Let's see if it will post here.
Right click the image and "Save Picture As" or "Save Target as" to your computer.

Thank you very much, I'll go check it out now....I'll check the headlight fuse as well...

ok, the starter works, now to tackle the headlight and find out if it's just blown or if something else is going on, the battery was real low so I didn't start it, it's on the charger now, it's probably shot, but maybe I can get a little life in it to see if this thing will fire up.

thanks

Other possible options:

Have a key made by a locksmith to fit the existing ignition switch ---
Click here > www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/41487...e-code-number#414874

Replace the ignition switch with a new unit that includes keys ---
Click here > www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...lock&item=EM40-80610

Key blanks are part number 27008-1103, which are reportedly still available from Kawasaki dealers, that fit 266 different Kawasaki models. (If needed, there's a link in my signature for help with navigating kawasaki.com).

Obtain a used ignition switch that includes keys ---
Check ebay listings for a used ignition switch with keys;
Start a thread in the "Wanted" section of KZrider's Classifieds forum.

According to kwasaki.com, the same ignition switch part number 27005-5024 is used on the following models, and is still available at Kawasaki dealers.

KZ1000-P10 (Police 1000) (1991)
KZ1000-P11 (Police 1000) (1992)
KZ1000-P12 (Police 1000) (1993)
KZ1000-P13 (Police 1000) (1994)
KZ1000-P14 (Police 1000) (1995)
KZ1000-P15 (Police 1000) (1996)
KZ1000-P16 (Police 1000) (1997)
KZ1000-P17 (Police 1000) (1998)
KZ1000-P18 (Police 1000) (1999)
KZ1000-P19 (Police 1000) (2000)
KZ1000-P20 (Police 1000) (2001)
KZ1000-P21 (Police 1000) (2002)
KZ1000-P22 (Police 1000) (2003)
KZ1000-P24 (Police 1000) (2005)
KZ550-A3 (1982)
KZ550-A4 (1983)
KZ550-C3 (LTD) (1982)
KZ550-C4 (LTD) (1983)
KZ550-F1 (Spectre) (1983)
KZ550-F2 (LTD Shaft) (1984)
KZ550-M1 (LTD Shaft) (1983)
KZ650-H1 (CSR) (1981)
KZ650-H2 (CSR) (1982)
KZ650-H3 (CSR) (1983)
KZ700-A1 (1984)
KZ750-E1 (1980)
KZ750-E2 (1981)
KZ750-E3 (1982)
KZ750-F1 (LTD Shaft) (1983)
KZ750-H1 (LTD) (1980)
KZ750-H2 (LTD) (1981)
KZ750-H3 (LTD) (1982)
KZ750-H4 (LTD) (1983)
KZ750-L3 (1983)
KZ750-M1 (CSR Twin) (1982)
KZ750-N1 (Spectre) (1982)
KZ750-N2 (Spectre) (1983)
KZ750-R1 (GPz) (1982)


Good Fortune!