Help ignition relay problem

Hi guys,

I installed a relay according to Wired by George instructions. I used a 5 pin relay and bought the recommended pigtail. My problem is as soon as I turn the kill switch on the in wire fuse blows. I have double checked everything. Any help would really be appreciated.

regards,

jerry

New info guys. All goes well until I connect #87 relay wire to the spliced wire that leads to each coil. Then the fuse blows.

I wired this system on my bike using WG's diagram....it works fine....you have made a mistake wiring..(no shit) right! sounds like you have power and groung mixed up on the relay....you need to go back through and trace wires. Three things come to mind....relay is bad.....kill switch wires are bare and grounding out on frame etc.....wired incorrectly. When I turn my key on, I hear a click from the relay.

Thanks 4The,

Please look at my original post. I added more info. Maybe the relay is bad ?

Jerry

New info guys. All goes well until I connect #87 relay wire to the spliced wire that leads to each coil. Then the fuse blows.

this could also be a short at coils....sounds like you need to check from the splice to the coils.......see pic on mounting coils and coils screw touching the mounting bolt and grounding out to frame....this happens to many KZ owners. you would install a plastic sleeve to insulate the mounting screw/bolt...circled in red.

Many thanks again 4The,

I take it from your post I need to clean up all the screws/spacers to ensure they are grounded ?


Jerry

jerry chabino wrote: Many thanks again 4The,

I take it from your post I need to clean up all the screws/spacers to ensure they are grounded ?


Jerry

NO....the screw on the coil can come into contact with the long coil mounting bolt. If this happens....a short is caused blowing the fuse in question. The coil has 2 small screws that the wires connect to. Coil mounting screws are very long 3 inches. If they touch or a gap is close enough that a current could jump it would cause a short. Lets ask you this...do you have plastic spacers on the mounting bolts that are on the side of coil with screws???

the coil mounting screws have spacers. they do not look plastic but a magnet will not stick to them. thoseare the only two spacers i have

Just figured something out with your help. My coils DO NOT have little side screws where the yellow/red and black wires are attached to the coil. They are attached directly to some little molded nub and disappear into the coil. In reading George's directions he mentioned for wire 85 to "install the connectors onto one of the 2 small lugs on each of the coils.". Since II didn't see any other screws except the long coil to frame mounting screw thats where I made my connection. What a dumb shit ! I guess I won't be able to install Georges fix as I have no where to even solder the wires to one of these nubs..

Thanks for all you help.

Jerry

I just finished this conversion myself and had a problem that was the result of me not paying close enough attention to the factory wiring diagram. First off, what bike are you working on and can you post a picture of your bikes coils? It sounds like your bike probably has spade connectors on the the coils. This is how mine were and it shouldn't keep you from being able to do the conversion. George's article is well written, but you really have to pay attention to the wiring on your particular bike. If you have access to a factory wiring diagram I would really recommend looking it over to see where to get your switched 12v from.

What year make and model of said bike please.

well we all make mistakes as I just made one thinking you were using aftermarket Dyna coils. It sounds like you are using factory coils. You are able to do coil mod with factory coils. There are 2 wires for power to the coils and two wires that go to the ignition.....here is our problem....we have to get you the right wires.

Coil power
One wire will run power to the coils #87 from the relay. So #87 from relay goes to the two coil wires that used to be plugged into the yellow/red wire. You will need to add a double female connector to the #87 wire or solder all three toghter. This will take care of two of the 4 coil wires. The other two are ignition wires.

Ignition wires
Now on the other two coil wires. The ignition has two wires. One wire is for 1 & 4 cyclinders and the other is for 2 & 3 cyclinders. I think these are black and green. That takes care of the 4 coil wires.

Trigger wire
Now for #86 trigger wire....The yellow/red wire ....you just have to run the #86 wire from relay here. That takes care of the trigger wire. Check this out it may clear it up.....if not ask me.

Jerry, you should be able to connect to the coils on the red wire, away from the coil. You don't need to connect right at the coil. Connect some distance back, along the wire's run.
Stock, you will have a red (or yellow/red) wire powering both coils.
Follow these red wires back a ways, and they should connect together becoming one.
Now this single red wire, cut it (or disconnect it).
The side coming from the coils connects to lug #87.
The other side of the red wire will need to connect to lug #86.

Then all you need is the power to lug #30 and a ground wire to lug #85.

A 5 pin relay (you mentioned you are using one, so am I) will have either two lug #87s, both getting power, or it will have a lug #87a and #87b, where one will be switched on, the other off. If you have the a/b type, connect to the one (most likely a or just labelled 87) that give power when the relay is on.

Hooorah. It is working.. I hosed up a connector..

Thanks for the help Jerry

I had the same issue before two month and still can not resolve it I hope this tutorial provide some help to fix my error.