Ignition switch question!

Hey guys. I just bought what was listed as a NOS ignition switch part number 27005-5023 from ebay. It is the part number I need for my bike. The part is listed as obsolete on all of the kawasaki parts stores online, so I thought I'd get one from ebay. There is another one on ebay with the part number right on the factory box and I noticed the wires are the same color as the NOS switch I just bought.

The question I have is if the wire colors on NOS switches are supposed to match the wire colors from my stock connector on my bike? The colors do not match when I go to plug the NOS switch to my bike. I don't have the original switch from my bike, so I don't have anything to compare it to.

I can post pics later, but just wanted to see if anybody has any knowledge of this type of situation.

Thanks for your help.

I think the CSR is the M model. If so open the PDF file listed here .

I hope that helps you some.

Later, Doug

That is a great diagram...easier to read than the one that came with my Clymer. Thanks.

So the wire colors on my wiring harness that lead to the ignition connector all match up with the wiring diagram.

But the wire colors on my NOS switch leading to the connector don't match those.

For example, the lone wire connector from my harness to igntion should be yellow/red like on the diagram, but lone wire from my NOS switch is brown.

Should I just be hooking up a red/yellow wire from my harness to a brown wire from my ignition switch?

Another thing that confuses me is there is no locking tab on the NOS switch connector. So not only will it not be locking in position, but it really gives me no indication which side of the connector goes up, especially since the wire colors don't match and the wire colors on the switch are different from the wiring diagram.

Thanks guys.

Got ant pictures of the NOS Switch connector? Sounds like a Reproduction Switch, and not a Kawasaki OEM NOS.

Then in the wiring diagram, it shows the connections made inside the switch when the key is in different positions. of course this is with the OEM wire colors, so you could compare where the connections are in the Factory connector and the new one. make a connector pinout diagram or each and compare. it would be possible if they are incorrect, to push down on the terminal lock in the connector for each incorrect wire and move them to the correct position.

Have some pics of the NOS switch connectors.

The wire colors of the top of the connector are red, yellow, then white.




The wire colors on the bottom of the connector are orange with green stripe (across from red), blue (across from yellow), then white with black stripe (across from white).





There is a single brown wire that I assume would connect to the stock yellow with red stripe wire on my harness.

I connected this ignition to my stock harness and not only did nothing work when I turned the key (horn, blinkers, etc.) but I also noticed my 30 amp main fuse turned bright orange and burnt out in a matter of seconds.

Not sure why this is happening. Everything is hooked up the way it as before the rebuild. The only changes I made were LED turn signals and tail light. I installed the LED flasher units from Creative Wiring.

I also switched the stock battery wires with larger ones from Creative Wiring. Tried changing fuses too. Same results.

To me that looks like a Repro switch, as you can see the differences plainly with an OEM switch. And you're right the wire colors look to be in the wrong spot. Can you do as I suggested and find the contacts at each key position and move the wires in the connector. I realize the Brown and the red/ Yellow will have the wrong ends to do this. Maybe also use the Old insulator from your OEM switch if it is in good shape? that way you would have a Look for the connection. Or you could run a Zip Tie around it to hold it tight.
Otherwise return it, and get a NOS Kawasaki Switch if you can find one.
As far as blowing the fuse, you can try each connection at the switch connector, not using the switch but a jumper, to test each connection/ circuit. It is possible that you have a short to ground somewhere, possibly the new tail light. Have you tried to separately power it up?

Also instead of the Clymer, download the FSM in my signature. you will need Adobe Acrobat Reader or a pdf viewer to open it.