GPz1100 pickup coils

My bike has been running fantastic over the last several weeks I was coming home from a short trip 15 miles and suddenly it started to sputter and not want to run unless I was really on the gas. Thought carb related so I took the carbs off brand new set of BS36 thinking maybe some dirt got into them. Took the bowls off they looked brand new of course. I sprayed some carb cleaner throught he idle circuits just in case there was some grit in them and put the carbs back on.
Well the problem didn't go away. It ran good for awhile then as the engine warmed up it started cutting out but now it was doing at all throttle settings
I took the coils off and checked them they checked out fine. I then tested the pickup coils they tested at 551 ohms the manual indicated max of 540 ohms. I thought that should not make a difference but I had an extra good set around so I installed them. I took it on a 20 mile ride and pushed it hard trying to get it to replicate again but it didn't the problem seems to have gone away runs great again. Now I wouldn't think that 11 ohms would make a difference. My question after this long post is would 11 ohms indicate a bad pickup coil. I thought the ohms reading on a bad set of pickup coils would be obvious like 600 ohms or higher. I don't want to ride it a ways then have it start over again away from home. Since the coils are the originals I am going to pony up for some Dyna coils anyway for piece of mind.

It very well might make a difference in the amount of resistance to make the pick up coils work.

From my experience in shops, the pickup coils either quit working when the motor is good and hot and with ohm meter tested right after it quits, the ohms show bad, then while it cooling down, you'll see the ohms come back and it runs on that pickup again until it gets hot. OR they dont work at all. High rpm doesnt sound like a pickup coil. I'd suspect something in wiring or ignition coil.

P.S. remove sparkplug caps if they unscrew from wire and ohm them out where wire goes in to where the plug connects. Often an old cap builds high resistance and will only fire at high rpm. Your caps resistances should be similar to each other. If you get one not showing continuity, thats most likely your problem. And sometimes you need to trim wire back and inch or so to get good wire to screw back into. (if wires are not too short to do so) Thats just something to check that is problematic with hot running aircooled motors. They will eventually cook the caps and the resistor inside the cap goes bad.