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Healight/Tailight issue. Help!
- KinkJayRoe
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so...battery is charged, brake light works, everything is grounded, none of the wires seem burnt or shorted.
My extremely amateur theory is a faulty rear brake switch causing problems?
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- MFolks
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The front switch may be the type that works on brake pressure,or have a small actuation switch built into the front brake mount(perch).
Vibration may have moved the rear brake light switch out of adjustment, so check the hardware(lock nuts on the switch body).
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- Patton
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KinkJayRoe wrote: So, just the other day my 78 kz650 headlight and taillight stopped turning on, but the brake light was working fine. The bulbs are definitely not blown and when i fully charged the battery, nothing changed. However, the brake light now remains on all the time even when no pressure is applied to the rear brake (front brakes are not hooked up).
so...battery is charged, brake light works, everything is grounded, none of the wires seem burnt or shorted.
My extremely amateur theory is a faulty rear brake switch causing problems?
Brake light is an independent circuit which should not cause a problem with the headlight or tail light.
The front brake light switch has a "hot" brown wire. Activating the switch connects the hot brown wire to the blue wire that feeds current to the rear bulb's brake filament.
Same for the rear brake light switch.
Failure of head light and tail light might be due to insufficient grounding (for whatever reason) through the black-yellow wire; or might be due to corrosion inside the ignition switch, headlight switch or dimmer switch. Or might be due to a blown fuse or other reason for not receiving current (such as a loose connector, or broken internal wire, or whatever).
This link will allow downloading a wiring diagram from KZrider's FILEBASE, which should help trace the current flow and find a break somewhere between the battery positive terminal and the headlight bulb:
www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/290-z650b2-c2
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Mullineaux
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KZ650 ( '77 Engine, '78 frame, 80's ignition, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Pods, lowered [links])
1980 XS1100 full Vetter dresser
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- KinkJayRoe
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- Old Man Rock
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Brake light go OFF...?
If so, switch is activating... either bad switch (old) or you still have enough spring tension activating it. Re-insert blue conductor and disconnect spring to test theory if tension activated...
Otherwise, blue conductor to rear brake light is some how picking up 12Vdc (battery voltage) in your harness/connections.
Red = +12Vdc from ignition switch to bulb (Running light)
Black'Yellow = Ground (Battery (-) / grounded frame)
Blue = Brake light switches, switched +12Vdc to bulb. (Brake Light)
Attachment KZ650-B2C21978.jpg not found
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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