Bike dies on highway

Going to grab a 300zx part required a 5 mile highway trip. I have only hit the highway about 3 times in the 2 years ive owned the bike seeing as the speedometer doesn't go past 85, but figured it'd be ok with a short trip.(82 750LTD 10.5k) I let the bike warm up a min and headed out. Hwy entrance is about 1 mile from work, jump on and after about 1-1.5 miles the bike dies. Like someone hit the kill switch. No sputtering, hesitation anything. Pulled over, checked fuses under the side cover, even swapped out fuses that looked good with the spares incase they separated at the ends inside(seen it alot in car audio) still nothing.

The way it happened, I was accelerating to go around a truck & already doing about 70/75, made me think.....could keeping the engine at that upper RPM for an extended period time cause a part to finally fail?

I understand that these bikes are "vintage" and like me who is at the same age, stuff is starting to creek and pop. I would think this could have happened hauling me to and from work at 35-45 where it spends 99.98 percent of the time, and I just so happened to be in the upper crust of the speedo when it died.

But it is because I was in an unusual situation, I thought I would ask.

As long as you didn't push it past redline you should not have a problem. Check the electrical stuff carefully, it sounds like you may have an open circuit someplace or a failed ignition component. Ed

Did you get it running again? Mine has done the same thing. Did you happen to check the fuel level? Mine only goes about 100 miles on the main (run) fuel setting then I have to put it on reserve. I think it holds around 3.7 gallons but runs out after only using 2.5. Fortunately this was my problem.

Julian@MotoCARR wrote: Like someone hit the kill switch. No sputtering, hesitation anything.

But it is because I was in an unusual situation, I thought I would ask.

Julian,

You said it stopped, like hitting the kill switch, no sputtering or anything. I can almost guarantee it is not mechanical, but is going to be electrical. It could be a number of things, but is most probably a positive wire somewhere where the electrical insulation has worn off and is hitting the frame, cutting the power mid stroke.

I had the identical problem, was a real bitch to track down (anything with electrical). Most times I could fire it up right away and take off, and then down the road, mid stroke dies. Go get the truck, haul it back home. Try it again later, fires right up, can take off and dies again. Frustrating!

Mine turned out to be a wire running down my neck stem, little insulation wore off, would sometimes just hit the frame in the right place, BAM, dead. You are going to have to go over your wires with a fine tooth comb, check everything single one. I know, it's a pain.

If it had been a mechanical problem from red lining, most probably have spun a bearing or such, blown a valve, etc. It wouldn't have died like you through the kill switch.

So, keep the faith, check it all over and you'll be back riding and enjoying the old bike once again.

Thanks for the replies guys.

I haven't had a chance to dig into it but being active in the car audio/aftermarket for the better part of 12 years, very familiar with the joys of tracking down electrical gremlins! Gas was a thought for a split second, but I had filled up earlier yesterday morning. I wasn't pushing it past redline, just thought that of all the times this bike could crap out, it was on the rare occasion I was flying on the highway at a decent clip.

Guess now would be a good time to go buy those new batteries for my Fluke meter I have been meaning to get I'll start at the ignition & kill switches and work my way back!

never mind - my mistake

Speedo comment was because I've never owned a bike(or vehicle) where I'd even come close to maxing the speedo. I was just throwing it out there incase that triggered an idea or a possible reason for the problem in the first place. I only hit the hwy a few times but I do know the previous owner used it to hwy commute 20 miles daily for years. Although unlikely, I wasn't sure if that could be a factor or not.

Some of the older kawaski's are suffering failed or failing solder joints in both of the left and right handlebar switch pods. Also get some "De-Oxit" electrical contact cleaner/preservative and clean ever electrical connector and switch for improved performance.

www.deoxit.com is their website.

Thanks I'll check it out!

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

1. Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website. It can be purchased at most Radio Shack Stores or any electronic supply places. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).

2. On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

3. Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

4. However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

5. Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

6. Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

7. Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

8. If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

9. The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. The older Kawasaki’s have reports of the soldered connections crumbling, if your bike has this problem, just ask, as I’ve got a repair procedure for this.

10. Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

11. The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

12. If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you, along with boating supply stores.

13. Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

14. All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

15. Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

16. If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation. Inspect all heavy duty battery cables and the smaller wire terminations(Bullet Connectors), for failed crimps, and those used in the electrical connectors, as they can fail over time.

17. Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

18. The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

20. The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

21. Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

22. Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “

From a forum member at www.kzrider.com