KZ650 timing issue

This bike is driving me nuts! Ok, so when running a strobe light over the advancer the F mark lines up perfectly with the mark on every blink on #1 and 4. On 2 and 3 the F line goes in front of the mark on one blink, and behind the mark on the next blink, and just keeps going like that. What could be the cause of this?

Oh, and I have brand new points, and condenser. The gap is set to .015

What gap is set to .015 what (inches or mm?)

If not already done, would lube the pivot points on the advancer weight arms.
Should be able to access the pivot points through the timing inspection window.

Is idle rpm at 1200 or less when aligning the F marks?

Good Fortune!

It is .015 inches.

Yes, the idle is at 1100rpm.

What should I use to lube the pivot points? Regular bearing grease?

btw Patton, I have read many of your posts over the past year, and they have been very helpful to me. I swear I feel like I am talking to a celebrity. lol.

The pivot points, ignition cam, and cam felt should be lubed with distributor grease (not regular dielectric grease). Here are two that work well.

Mallory
www.partstrain.com/store/?PN=4792&N=0

Bosch
secure.capitalcycle.com/BOSCH-POINT-CAM-...E/productinfo/FT1V4/

Regarding setting the points gap and timing; here’s the method I use on my KZ650-C1 for static timing. I turn OFF the ignition. I disconnect the green wire near one coil and the black wire near the other coil. (This is not in the book, but it makes checking continuity much easier.) After installing the new points turn the 17 mm nut while watching the points. When points pair 1&4 are at their widest gap adjust them (by loosening the 2 screws that hold the points to the backplate) so the gap equals 0.35 mm. Turn the 17 mm nut clockwise through a full revolution again and double check this gap. Then repeat this for points pair 3&4. Now set your meter to test continuity and clip one wire to the leaf spring on points pair 1&4 and clip the other wire to ground. Turn the 17 mm nut clockwise until the 1&4 “F” mark aligns with the pointer mentioned above. You want the continuity across point pair 1&4 to just break when the F mark aligns with the pointer. The idea is that when the continuity just fails is when the points will fire their respective coil and cylinders. In order to adjust the point at which continuity fails you loosen the 3 screws that hold the backplate to the engine and slightly turn the backplate until the meter shows a break in continuity. Once you have the 1&4 pair timed properly you can check the 2&3 pair to make sure they break when the 2&3 F mark aligns with the pointer. Don’t forget to plug in the green and black coil wires when you’re done.

After you have set the gap (which in effect sets the dwell) and the timing using the method above you can use a dwell meter and timing light to fine tune dwell and timing. If you have followed the above procedure carefully, very little if any fine tuning will be needed. Ed

Iheartkz wrote: ...when running a strobe light over the advancer the F mark lines up perfectly with the mark on every blink on #1 and 4. On 2 and 3 the F line goes in front of the mark on one blink, and behind the mark on the next blink, and just keeps going like that. What could be the cause of this?

As an initial effort toward lubing the pivot points through the timing inspection window, it would be okay to put a drop of engine oil on each of the two pivot points, just to determine whether lubrication will reduce the unsteady F mark alignment on 2 and 3.

When later removing the advancer for inspection and cleaning and "proper" lubing, would closely inspect the springs for any damage or excessive slack, especially on 2/3.

Good Fortune!

Thanks a lot guys! I will do these things in the next couple of days.