Rewiring a bike???

im also thinking of changing over to a blade fuse setup

Risking a "Coil Mod" backlash: :whistle: :woohoo:
But all of the newer bikes, and Automotive circuits involve relays to handle load. Take my ZG Concours, it has micro relays right in the "Junction Block"/ fuse panel. This distributes the power through relays, the relays are between the battery +, then fused, then to the load device.
So if you use this concept, you can remove some load from what is now the "Main Fuse". I would only do a High draw circuit such as the Head Light, and not the Ignition. Using a Continuous duty relay and Not a Momentary one. There are several, at different Amp ratings pretty cheap, like $10-15.
Look how many relays are on What ever Car/ Truck you own. Nearly everything is wired this way, lights/ Ign/ Fans/ etc.

i am not very familiar with the working of relays. only that they use a small power source to power a magnet, to complete another circuit. once that circuit is complete, how is it dif???
Please keep it in simple terms, for my simple mind.

Thats right, a small current to Latch/ connect the High current contacts of the relay. Your starter solenoid is Exactly this, a High Amperage Momentary Relay.
So on your bike, besides the Starter motor, the next highest Amp current circuits are the Ignition and Head lights. If you use a relay between the Battery and the Head Light, with a separate fuse, you would remove about 4.5 Amps from the Main Fuse. So now you would have 2 fuses, instead of one from the battery to the electrical. This is just an example of what they do in a circuit, re-route the load through a Electrically operated Switch, a Relay.
Again just examples of different wiring techniques.

for ease of understanding.
so relays(for the simple minded,like me and mark),
act as a remote switch powered by a low voltage + wire?
is this true?

leon

Precisly, a relay is simply an electrically operated switch, and come in an array of contact ratings(capacity), and coil voltages(the electric used to throw the switch)

More possible wire suppliers:
www.painlesswiring.com/
www.meridiancable.com/wire-cable/standard-design-wire-cable/
www.speedwaymotors.com/wiring-harness-th.html
www.rallylights.com/SMS_Custom_Wiring_Harnesses.aspx
www.apaconnects.com/custom-wire-harness-fabrication.html
stores.ez2wire.com/StoreFront.bok
www.us-wire-harness.com/

Relay Types& Wiring Information
www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_do_i_check_a_relay.htm
www.summitracing.com/parts/PCO-5591PT/
www.mcmelectronics.com/product/26-1942

Thanks MF.
i will certainly look through them all. if u find more let me know.

How do i post a pdf pic? :S

here is a photo of a 78 wiring diagram




it may be hard to see. the main fuses white lead, goes to the ignition(key switch) then it feeds a brown wire that comes back to feed 2 fuses. 1 for the headlight and another for most of the other lights. but it does seem to power some things prier to feeding the fuse(horn,neutral lt, oil lt).

as i said, my bike only has 1 fuse. so i just bought 1 of these ignition switches from a member here.
i am currently thinking that i should buy a new 78 wiring harness and use this new ignition key switch. does this seem sensible? and better ideas. this would make it simpler to rewire my bike with 3 fuses.
if i go this route, would it make sense to cut the lead that goes to the head lt fuse, and feed a relay with that power. then take a lead from the +bat and go into the relay and then out to the fuse? or am i wasting my time by adding an extra switch(relay).

i am going to the gp races at Indy tomorrow, so i may not rely for a few days.
Thanks for the help guys. Have a good week end.
M

That diagram is pretty fuzzy for reading the printing.
But yes the Idea of using a relay to supply power to the head light circuit is good. First the entire main fuse circuit would have less Amperage going through it, this includes the contacts in the Ign switch. Those remaining circuits would then have an easier path for carrying current. Just like when the Internet gets slow when lots of users are trying to be Online, the wire can only carry so much. It should result in more energy to your important areas such as the Ignition power circuit, and your Head Light. The Head light because of the New Power Routing through the relay, and the Ign because now there is less load on that circuit.
This can be tested with a Volt meter before hand if you like. Turn the key on and measure the voltage across the coils, and the head light. Then pull the Head light fuse ( once wired that way) and supply that fuse from the battery and recheck both voltages. See an increase on both?

that makes sence. i have a few more things added to my bike that draw more power as well. i have a Dyna 2000, they r said to draw more current. i changed to a new style combo reg/rec, from the older separates, new light weight battery box,new zrx guages, and new HID headlight(saves current). so i have just kept splicing and adding and that made a few small birds nests.

i should be done with the add on now, so it will be nice to get it all cleaned up and fresh.

i'm thinking that i would unwrap the entire new wire harness, and add what is needed then re-wrap??

sounds easy when its just 1 sentence. :lol:

Sure you can do exactly that. As you unwrap, put a small zip tie, where the wires come off out of the main loom to keep the original tight and tidy. Lay your other wires and as you tape, cut the zips.


When you get a chance, make a list off all of your electrical equipment, then post it. It may help to know which fuse panel to select, also based on room on the bike of course. Lots of guys here are good at wiring/ electrical. I would think a 6 fuse panel would be enough.