Rewiring a bike???

i have a 76kz900. i am contemplating rewiring it. it only has 1 fuses.
i have heard that all the power going through 1 fuse the fuse gets very hot. is this because the wire in undersized??
i thought it made sense to buy a later model wiring harness with 3 fuses. after looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like the power still goes through 1 fuse to the key then to 2 more fuses.
wouldnt the first/main fuse still get hot?


how do i attach a pdf wiring diagram?

You are correct, the power still goes through one big fuse. The other, smaller, fuses are there to isolate sub-circuits so it's easier to identify where the problem is, but it doesn't offer any more protection, just convenience. Also, if a lighting fuse blows, it won't stop the motor, so you can still get home.

i have heard that all the power going through 1 fuse the fuse gets very hot.
is this because the wire in undersized??

is there anything i should be considering upgrading at this time?
do the stock harnesses have addaquit gauge wire?

Depending on some space limitations, the minimum wire I'd use would be 16 gauge. Some bikes have 18 gauge for wiring for the lighting circuits,maybe 14 gauge for other circuits, and 12 gauge for the rectifier/regulator wiring to the battery.The next larger and better current carrying ability will be 10 gauge.

Battery cables should be increased in size from what's on the bike(maybe 8 gauge) to 6 gauge. Welding cable is a nice size increase. It's very flexible, and comes in two colors, RED and BLACK, usually sold by the foot.

Make sure on the battery cables, that the places of contact(battery terminals,& engine mounting bolt) are free of rust,paint and corrosion, for maximum current transfer.

Use untinned(solder coated) wire for maximum flexibility.

Some tips on wiring, and tools:


(Automotive Wire And Cable Basics, Which Type Should I Choose


(Butt Connectors vs. Bullet Connectors)


(Heatshrink Terminal Installation)


Aircraft Electrical Tools, Basic Overview 001)


(Terminals: Basic Overview Of Aircraft Electrical Terminals)

The Best Mutimeter Tutorial

Thanks for all the info MFolk.

i will try to get through it all and report back.
r u familiarly with the kz1000 wiring? does it need to be heavier gauge?

Funny you posted this, because I am trying to decide on reusing my stock harness, or building my harness from scratch. This way I can use all weatherproof components (deutsch connectors, wetehr pack relays & bases, etc...) and use ATC style fuses. I'll be interested in what you come up with.

Cory

Heavier gauge wiring will carry more current, but you'll have additional weight(probably not more than a pound or so).

I'd do this too:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

1. Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website. It can be purchased at most Radio Shack Stores or any electronic supply places. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).

2. On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

3. Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

4. However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

5. Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

6. Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

7. Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

8. If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

9. The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. The older Kawasaki’s have reports of the soldered connections crumbling, if your bike has this problem, just ask, as I’ve got a repair procedure for this, just ask.

10. Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

11. The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

12. If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you, along with boating supply stores.

13. Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

14. All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

15. Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

16. If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation. Inspect all heavy duty battery cables and the smaller wire terminations(Bullet Connectors), for failed crimps, and those used in the electrical connectors, as they can fail over time.

17. Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

18. The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

20. The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

21. Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

22. Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “

From a forum member at www.kzrider.com





Why WD-40 Should Not Be Used On Motorcycle Electrical Items.

For many years, I was proponent of the use of WD-40 on fuse clips, fuses, switches and connectors. After hearing of other peoples experience with intermittent and sporadic activity, I shrugged it off as maybe they did something wrong in the application of the product.


It wasn’t until the time I rode my 1982 GPz1100 B2 model to downtown San Diego that I encountered the problems others had gone through.

After concluding my business downtown, I walked to where my bike was parked, turned the key to unlock the forks, and prepared to start the engine. The key was in the "On" position, yet I had no lights in the dash panel, the fuel pump was not running(I have FI), and the horn and tail light were not working.


Puzzled as to why nothing electrical was happening, I remember my earlier conversations about how WD-40 will over time become a non-conductor(more like an insulator). I had some pieces of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in my tool kit and with them was able to scratch away the coating from the WD-40 on the fuses and clips.

After removing the insulating film, the bike started and ran like it should. Since that time, I’ve told people about the problem with WD-40. If you must use a contact cleaner, I recommend getting some "De-oxit" from Radio Shack Stores or any good electronic supply store.

The fuse only gets hot if you are close to the current limit of the fuse. If the wire is heavy enough, and the connections are clean, then a fuse won't get too hot.

Thanks guys.

do u know if the 900's main wire to fuse, were noted for being undersized?

i have read a couple of post that suggest that hot fuses may be the norm ?? Fact or fiction ???

I'm guessing, but most owners do not do much electrical maintenance on their bikes, so it's big suprise when a fuse blows or they get stranded. A much better fuse to use will be the "Blade Style" used in modern bikes and cars.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by using a multimeter to check for voltage going through the fuse, or when the fuse is removed for physical inspection for tight end caps & continuity checks,can it be determined if it’s serviceable.

5. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

6. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

7. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

8. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net/store/6!way-fuse-blocks/p_10822.a_1

www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Product...ers/fuseholders.html

www.autowiringsolutions.com/item.php?item_id=251&category_id=89 (ATO/ATC Fuse Holder)


9. A source for the glass tubed AGX fuses:
www.boatownerswarehouse.com/browse.cfm/2,4986.html

www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?N...&D=AGX&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

Good point the blade fuses do seem like a better fuse.
i replaced my tube fuse with a blade a few years ago.

This is supposedly a good supplier for electrical wiring for cars and motorcycles:

http://www.riwire.com./ (Rhode Island Wire)

I'd imagine that www.painlesswiring.com/ could supply the colored wire you need too.