Starter problems

More
31 Jul 2012 20:57 #539840 by SATSFYD
Starter problems was created by SATSFYD
Back ground story first:
I replaced the brushes on my starter in '06 and have not riden the KZ750 since.

I just put a new battery in and the start just turned a few times and now it just clickes. Is it time for a complete replacement of my starter?

Thoughts?

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
31 Jul 2012 22:44 #539870 by Tomolu5
Replied by Tomolu5 on topic Starter problems
Sounds more like the battery needs charged, do you have a trickle charger you could leave it on overnight?

Mine:
04 Honda rebel 250(wifes)
04 GSXR 750(bolt on galore)
98 CBR 600F3(filter, pipe, adjustable cam sprokets, dyno tune)
76 KZ900A (LTD gauge pods, crash bars, LTD(style)pipes, dyna coils and ignition,headwork and mild port cleanup by cavanaugh racing, K&N filter pods, heck I dunno.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
31 Jul 2012 22:44 #539871 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic Starter problems
First, make sure all of the large battery cables are clean and tight,check the Negative(-)one going to the engine mounting bolt, and the Positive(+) ones going to the starter solenoid, and from it to the starter motor.


Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight. If the cables feel “Crunchy” when flexed, they may have corrosion inside the insulation, requiring replacement.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. A website for starter motors is:

A. www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm

B. www.nationsautoelectric.com/Kawasaki.html

C. www.whitedogbikes.com/cat--Kawasaki-Star...-Starter-Motors.html

D. www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/starters.php

E. www.dbelectrical.com/

F. www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=HS-29 (Mitsuba SM-220 12 volt 0.8KW Starter Motor)

G http://.www.nationsautoelectric.com/Kawasaki.html

H http:// www.dbelectrical.com/


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Aug 2012 20:23 #540342 by SATSFYD
Replied by SATSFYD on topic Starter problems
Yes I have a charger. I will do that first 'cause it's the easest thing to do. :whistle:

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
14 Aug 2012 12:39 #542542 by SATSFYD
Replied by SATSFYD on topic Starter problems
Still no luck. I took the starter out and did the battery to starter test and the starter still does not turn... i took it down to Bent Bike and they did the same test and the start still will not turn. (They did this on another starter to maker sure their battery was good too, that starter turned.)

So I took the starter apart cleaned the sun gears and greased them back up and checked out the brushes. They have a lot of life left in them... I am thinking something is wrong with the windings.

Thoughts?

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
14 Aug 2012 14:43 #542567 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic Starter problems
Have a starter motor rebuilding shop look at it if posible. Also disconnect the cable from the starter solenoid, and then use a use a multimeter set on OHMS to see if there is any resistance in the windings. Try several ranges. It's possible the winding are shot.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
15 Aug 2012 11:00 #542763 by SATSFYD
Replied by SATSFYD on topic Starter problems
Alright thanks I will try that too.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
16 Aug 2012 12:53 - 16 Aug 2012 12:55 #542929 by SATSFYD
Replied by SATSFYD on topic Starter problems
Is it possible that the brushes are pushing too hard on the stem to the windings? Two of the bushes are stuck in the "back" position because they are too tight in their slide housing.

I might need to post a picture to explan better.
Last edit: 16 Aug 2012 12:55 by SATSFYD.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
16 Aug 2012 16:32 #542941 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic Starter problems
The starter motor brushes should be spring loaded, and having them press really hard on the commutator tells me something is wrong. They should float, and adjust to maintain contact as parts wear(the commutator and brushes).

A starter motor is a fairly simple device, designed to turn over an engine so it continues to run;It has a circular magnet(s)inside the case,bushings or bearings for the commutator shaft to rotate on,the commutator which converts electrical power to mechanical power by the use of magnetic attraction & repulsion, and the brushes that wear against the commutator,providing the current to the starter motor.

Because the current draw(Amps)is so great,a solenoid is used to transfer the current from the battery to the starter motor when the start button is pressed. Starter solenoids can and due wear out,as every time the starter motor is energized, the internal contacts wear a small ammount, or the return spring breaks, letting the starter motor continue to spin. Sometimes the energizing coil fails, effectively making the solenoid "Dead".

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
23 Aug 2012 12:49 #544307 by SATSFYD
Replied by SATSFYD on topic Starter problems
Ha figured it out! The brushes on the postive (+) side where too "tight"! Shaved them down a bit so they slide and boom. The starter works great now.

Thanks for all the help and information guys.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Powered by Kunena Forum