1983 KZ750 K1 LTD Starting Problems

I will get pics as soon as I can. I noticed only after I posted the last time it did not post. I am at a computer at the University near where I live as I do not have internet access currently at my house.

trying to upload pics again. I hope this works.

for some reason I cannot use the attachment feature on this site. It always gives a fatal error.

I have uploaded the images to imgur and here is a link

imgur.com/a/pr02a

for now I'm going to just use the tips I have gotten so far and I'll probably break down and spend the whopping $20 on a multimeter, but I would really appreciate a basic HOW-TO guide on this problem.

Also, what do you think of the bike itself? I really did think i was going to get lucky and not have to do extensive work to it. Keep in mind, the nicer looking pictures with crisper colors are after I spent 4 days cleaning/restoring/repairing everything that looked "OFF" to me.

Thanks again for all the help

I had to upload the images to imgur, got a fatal error every time trying to post with the attachment tool.

The first two are the "holes" i am talking about on the head. They are identical in size, shape (rectangular) and location.

imgur.com/a/2KyJL

I think I'm going to buy a new ignition coil, solenoid, headlight, and possibly a rectifier and throw those on there and see what happens.

From what it sounds like when I try and start it (with the new battery in) is just like before. Everything else OK, just no spark...

Mine is a KZ750 K1 LTD but the title says the body style is R1 so I am using the R1 electrical guide as reference.

Again, many, many thanks to you.

The "Holes look to me like casting flaws, so don't be concerned. The item with the blue terminations appears to be a relay, possibly what the previous owner added for ignition power to the ignition coils. Replacement relays can be bought at most auto parts stores, just bring along the old one for comparison.

www.wgcarbs.com is the website for the man who created the bypass using a relay, so ask him.

Here's some relay information:
www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_do_i_check_a_relay.htm
www.summitracing.com/parts/PCO-5591PT/
www.mcmelectronics.com/product/26-1942

I was wondering exactly what they were for, as though I would agree with you in the sense they are there from the cast, it appears they should be there, because even if someone wanted to, I don't think they could have (easily) made those holes so exact on each side, but I can tell the cast had some rough edges...

I checked out similar switches/relays the other day, I wanted to confirm it though. I couldn't find an exact match, but I'll mark what wires were going where and take it to the store when I get off at 7 am and but a replacement, hook it up, and crank her over to see what happens.

Other than that I'll either need to start buying new/new-to-me parts and throwing them in to see what happens. I don't see how that could hurt seeing as the bike is so old and almost everything is stock still.

I would buy you a couple rounds MFolks to thank you, but since you are a stranger, albeit a very helpful one, a heartfelt thanks will have to suffice.

Thanks man, This is an awesome resource

Glad I could provide you with good information, I used to build and wire missile test equipment and cables when I worked for General Dynamics/Convair Division in San Diego Ca. Previous to that, I worked for 9 years bulding and wiring large electrical power conditioning & battery packs at a company in San Diego. Prior to that, I had military experiance as 8 years in the USAF as a aircraft weapons mechanic.

Don't be afraid to ask if you have any more problems...

I will have infinite questions until I get it started. I'm losing my patience with it. I mean, I planned to spend about 600 bucks on getting it in the condition I wanted, but at least half I planned on simple, cosmetic things...

Until I get it started I won't even know if there is major mechanical problems or anything.

What if first or second gear is TOAST?

What if the Brakes Don't Work?

There are a lot of "What if's" swimming in my head at this point.

and on a side note i bought a new relay today and it didn't change anything.

I checked out z1enterprises and I don't know what to buy.

Do you know if the ignition for this bike is dual output? I would assume it is, but I'm a moron, so that assumption is a Morons Assumption...

As well as what version to buy. They range from single/dual 1.5-5 OHM output... I'm not a missile scientist like you, I don't know what I am doing...

Luckily, this guy from O'rielys (where I got the relay) apparently went to motorcycle tech school and offered to look at it. I could tell he know what he was talking about as he said a lot of the things you said, right off the top of his head.

Also, is the electrical generator no longer called a magneto? Or is Stator referred to a internal electric geneorator that runs DC and a magneto for AC? that is just a curious question that came up...

Other than that, I'll refer to what you have previously posted when I have time and check those connetions out.

I found enough replacement parts on ebay to get it where it would be rideable and look okay without the goofy fairing for about $215.

BUT, I thought about it, and I compared some prices, I would rather just buy the $60 Dyna coil than spend 35 on a part I know is used, as well as other miscellaneous parts...

Again, thanks. And dude, seriously, if I get this running soon you can PM me and I'll send you a money order so you can buy a few rounds of drinks. And if you don't drink, just a ginger ale, or maybe a sasparilla, really whatever floats your boat.

MFolks wrote: Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(BEHIND A RIGHT SIDE, CD SIZED COVER) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of 2K, check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

on my bike it is just black and blue coming from the pickup coils. I checked 3 times. 370 OHMS

so it is the IC igniter? Is this link you posted on www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum for a replacement for the IC igniter or the pickup coils?

home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Ignition/GPZgmHEImod.html

If so, I can slap that shit together faster than it would take me to go buy the parts (advance has the ACCEL part you listed there shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/sto...610-p?zoneAssigned=1 ) and I know radioshack has the parts, I was there the other day.

Other than that I have to go have the battery charged. It's about dead from all the testing I've been doing on it.

Hope I don't need a new starter at the end of this.

Other than that I stripped the fairing off and it really clarified some things.

The guy put the relay on there, i assume, to switch power to the ignition during starting (and not the giant ass headlight on there) so I found a wiring diagram and traced everything back and reconnected what needed to be.

Also, I took off the instrument cluster items and am cleaning them up.

The spedo had a cracked face, so I'll need to go have a circle glass custom cut or just buy some 2/8" plexi and cut it out myself and reassemble. Might do that for the tach as it has dust in it.

Gonna buy a headlight and some new front turn signals.

Now that I have the multimiter should I check anything else?

Is there a way to check the igniter? what if it is good too?

I guess make another sweep on the whole thing and check for something loose?

Thanks again