What should be fused? 1977 KZ1000

I made myself a wiring harness. Im looking for opinions on what should have a dedicated fuse and what amperage that fuse should be.

I will be putting the coils and the headlight on seperate relays.

I have already burned up one DynaS by leaving the ignition on, I would like to avoid that again if possible.

I've eliminated some erroneous circuits, like idiot brake light and headlight on/off.

For my 1982 GPz 1100, the circuits that are fused are:
30 amp,main fuse.
10 amp,turn signal flasher.
10 amp,tail light and instrument.
10 amp,horn and ignition.
10 amp for the headlight.

With the 30 amp circuit using 12 gauge wire, and the 10 amp circuits being 14 gauge in size.

As a general rule, no circuit should be tied directly to the hot lead without going through a fuse. If you don't have some sort of protection from overcurrent, you are asking for a fire.

That doesn't mean several circuits can't be on a single fuse. As long as the sum of the current draws of those multiple circuits doesn't exceed the capabilities of the fuse and the wiring, you should be okay. That being said...
The headlight circuit is fused in stock form so it should get one on a custom harness. Any relay you install tied directly to the hot lead should get a fuse also. If you are going to do the "coil mod" putting the DynaS and the coils on a relay off of the hot lead from the battery, remember to connect the hot lead (after the fuse) to the Normally Open leg (87) of the Bosch relay and put the coils/DynaS on the Common leg (30). That way, there isn't a hot leg still present when the key is off.
I have a 77 kz1000 and I have no idea what a headlight on/off circuit is. Do you mean you eliminated the on/off switch? That wasn't really necessary if you are going to use a relay anyway. I like having that feature. I can turn off my headlight when I am starting the bike to avoid extra draw on the battery.

I did tht on my bike, as the headlight came on when the ignition switch came on. Since it has the reserve lighting system, I had to use a double pole, double throw switch, to break/make two seperate circuits.

The 77 still had the capability to turn off the headlight. Since he was using a relay, he could use the already installed headlight switch to operate the relay and have the heavy battery current go through the contacts on the switch inside the relay and on to the headlight. Since the coil inside the relay uses so little current, the voltage drop across the handlebar switch due to age, corrosion, wear, etc would have an insignificant effect on the coil's operation making this an ideal application of the relay.

I did something similar with my harness, deleted horn, ditched headlamp & signal controls.
My hand works just fine for signaling & I made a control booth on the inside part of my tank with toggle switches for headlight, tail & aftermarket speedo back light all running through one 30amp fuse. I also ditched my keyed ignition for a toggle & separated the headlamp wiring from it so I can have no lights at all at start up if my battery is acting a fool or so I can flick em off & creep through a ghetto neighborhood discretely [except for straight pipes].
I can tell you I cut out about 50% of my wiring alone with that.
Ill have a build thread up in a couple days showing the controls as they are now.
Good for you man, I definitely feel closer to the bike after all that. :lol: