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oil leak at tach
- IowaKZ
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- '80 G1 Classic
Does anyone else have this problem? Is it the wrong tach cable?
thanks
Sorry, forgot to mention. This is a '80 G1 classic kz 1000.
Post edited by: IowaKZ, at: 2006/06/11 21:59
1980 G1 Classic
Bettendorf, Iowa
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- Nevco48
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- Pterosaur
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Now that you bring it up, yes I have the same problem with my "80 750. New cable, but it still feels wiggly at the engine...
I had the same problem years ago on the red/silver bike in the gallery.
My fix was to take a thin rubber washer that fit inside the ferrule (knurled knob) and over the the metal flange end of the cable sheath just a tad snug.
That way, the washer takes up any slack between the ferrule and the flange, and acts like a gasket.
Worked for me..
(Where's 77KZ650 with his paint program when I need him?)
Post edited by: Pterosaur, at: 2006/06/11 23:48
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- IowaKZ
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1980 G1 Classic
Bettendorf, Iowa
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- got12narow
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- 77KZ650
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(Where's 77KZ650 with his paint program when I need him?)[/quote]
actually anyone with windows has MSPaint:P (click "start", "all programs", "accessories" and "paint")
If only i had autoCAD, then i could do some real damage with some pics :silly:
Might want to check out this link too (tach seal from Z1E)
Post edited by: 77KZ650, at: 2006/06/12 09:45
07 MDP Rookie of the Year
01 ZX-12R street/drag bike. 8.97 @155.7 pump gas, dot tires, no bars, no power adders. top speed in the 1/4: 161MPH
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- Pterosaur
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I had the same problem on my 77 750. I tried to form a "gasket", and I also tried a sealer. Neither did the trick. I purchased a new tach cable, and the leak went away. I did have trouble getting the threads started on the old one, but the new went started and seated very smoothly. Good luck!
That'll work too...
There's two possibilities for leaks - through the threads on the ferrule (less common) and between the flange on the cable end and the nipple on the head.
Sometimes the angle on the flange is a bit shallow - cheaper brand aftermarket cables with less Q/C in the process, or being a 600 pound gorilla when tightening the ferrule can flatten the flange.
With a new cable, a little "never-seize" on the nipple threads will fix problem #1, and a deft touch when torque-ing down the ferrule usually does the trick...
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- Pterosaur
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Pterosaur wrote:
(Where's 77KZ650 with his paint program when I need him?)
...actually anyone with windows has MSPaint:P (click "start", "all programs", "accessories" and "paint")
I did the "custom" install of WinDoze - left out all the accessory stuff, figured if I needed a paint program, I'd go the *MajorGeeks* route - but this setup works *peachy* by me - I describe contextually what I'm thinking of, and *zowie*, a drawing appears!
Post edited by: Pterosaur, at: 2006/06/12 09:48
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