TOPIC:

I think I have posted this table before but do not remember the post to link to so here it is again. The different systems used on the (k)z650 and the part#s for the items used in the systems.

74ullc wrote:
I'm also a little suspicious of the battery, shouldnt it be showing more like 12.75 volts after charging all night? It was showing 12.02 volts.

12.02 volts does seem a bit low. However, just measuring the voltage will tell you little about the actual condition of the battery. I recently replaced the battery in my 1100 - after charging overnight it showed 12.2V alright, but the battery tester I have access to at work showed it only held 4.5Ah where it was supposed to hold 19Ah.

If you don't have a tester, best way is to use a hydrometer to test the specific gravity of the acid, this will tell you right away if the battery is good or not.

Hydrometers can be found cheap at most auto stores or hardware shops, just make sure you get one with a nozzle small enough to fit in a motorcycle battery.

Actually, the B1 have 4 wires coming from the alternator; 3 yellow to the rectifier and one green going to the voltage regulator.

You need at least 13.4V to keep the battery reasonably charged, preferably 14V.

Here is my .02, I think your problem is the wrong regulator/ rectifier assy. The clue is the green wire. I believe that unit is for a excited field alternator, not the permanent magnet type. Of course I can't be 100% sure which you have, as parts can be changed on an old bike. Look at your harness that comes from the Stator area, and see what colors are there, pull the sprocket cover and see which is the nuetral switch. Report which wires are from the Stator.
Look at your R/R and see the Part # on it, I bet it will show its for an Excited field set up. You need this one if you have the permanent magnet system, 208.75.64.170/ItemDetails.aspx?item=RI10-304
See how it has a Black and not a green wire at the R/R 4 way plug.

I'll have to see if he still has the box the RR came in, I bet he does. He could have ordered the wrong one, or Z1E could have sent the wrong one, it happens.

I will report back on the RR P/N later today. Then from there we can take a look under the sprocket cover. The green wire didnt really seem all that strange considering its an aftermarket unit, but now that I see the pic of the different one on Z1E it has me wondering.

If the RR is the wrong one, do you think we messed it up by running it on his bike? I dont know if Z1E will exchange it but its worth a shot if it's still functional.

Its looking like you guys were right and we have the wrong RR. The box is correct (10-304) but it looks like the wrong RR was in the right box.

He got it from bikebandit, but it came in a Ricks Motorsports box. Checking the Ricks Motorsports shows this...

www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/proddet...pmc=NzhLYXdLWjY1MEI=

...in the pic the RR has two yellow, one red/white and one black. Those colors and combination match the original harness on the bike. He is going to give bikebandit a shout tomorrow and see what he can find out.

I'll update this thread when we know for sure. I appreciate the heads up on the possible wrong RR, great help!!!!

Hope it works out for you, then it charges correctly so you can get out and ride.

He ordered another RR from bikebandit. Got the same one with the black body, two yellow wires, a red and green. Same result.

12.50 volts bike off
11.50 at idle
12.50 at 2500 - 4000, peak we saw was about 12.80 when he reved it up higher.

We did notice that the original red/white wire female bullet connector (connector to the red RR wire) was getting really hot where the plastic/rubber tubing is melted on. Looks like the factory heated that part of the wire to melt on the plastic tubing? Maybe there are some broken wires strands in there causing high resistance in that area. He is going to cut off the original connector and put a new one on. We'll see if that helps.