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1982 kz 650 main fuse keeps blowing
- joeworthey@yahoo.com
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20 Jun 2012 15:48 #530549
by joeworthey@yahoo.com
1982 kz 650 main fuse keeps blowing was created by joeworthey@yahoo.com
My main line fuse keeps blowing and I don't know why. I was told to check the stator and look for a bad ground but I don't know how to do either. I apologize for the lack of knowledge but I just don't want to start throwing parts at it.
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- gd4now
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- Denco where did you go?
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20 Jun 2012 16:29 #530556
by gd4now
1977 KZ650 B1
Pods and Denco header
OLD KAW OWNERS SMILE ALOT
Replied by gd4now on topic 1982 kz 650 main fuse keeps blowing
Most times when the main fuse blows there is a short in one of the wires. Frequent locations of shorts on the 650s are in the right hand control unit, the headlamp shell, or the horn. However, the short could be anywhere in the system. You need to trace all of the wires and find and repair the issue.
1977 KZ650 B1
Pods and Denco header
OLD KAW OWNERS SMILE ALOT
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- MFolks
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20 Jun 2012 17:19 #530563
by MFolks
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
Replied by MFolks on topic 1982 kz 650 main fuse keeps blowing
The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!
Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)
1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.
2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one. Just 1, not both!
3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.
4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.
5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.
6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).
7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.
8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.
9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask).
10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.
11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.
12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.
Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)
1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.
2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one. Just 1, not both!
3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.
4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.
5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.
6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).
7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.
8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.
9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask).
10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.
11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.
12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- Nameless
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21 Jun 2012 23:51 #530882
by Nameless
Replied by Nameless on topic 1982 kz 650 main fuse keeps blowing
Hello All,
I'm having the same problem but its due to the brakes. Everytime I connect the front brake wires into the harness the fuse blows. The rear brake switch can be connected but once i apply the rear brakes the main fuse blows again. What are the possible issues? I have tried looking through the forum but it was exhausting after the 30th page of not finding anything....
1981 Kz 550 a1
carbs cleaned and jetted
air pods added
led turn signals
I'm having the same problem but its due to the brakes. Everytime I connect the front brake wires into the harness the fuse blows. The rear brake switch can be connected but once i apply the rear brakes the main fuse blows again. What are the possible issues? I have tried looking through the forum but it was exhausting after the 30th page of not finding anything....
1981 Kz 550 a1
carbs cleaned and jetted
air pods added
led turn signals
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- Patton
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- KZr Legend
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22 Jun 2012 00:25 - 22 Jun 2012 00:25 #530886
by Patton
If needed, this link is to a downloadable wiring diagram in KZr's FILEBASE:
1982 KZ650 wiring diagram from KZr FILEBASE
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Replied by Patton on topic 1982 kz 650 main fuse keeps blowing
joeworthey@yahoo.com wrote: My main line fuse keeps blowing and I don't know why. I was told to check the stator and look for a bad ground but I don't know how to do either.
If needed, this link is to a downloadable wiring diagram in KZr's FILEBASE:
1982 KZ650 wiring diagram from KZr FILEBASE
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 22 Jun 2012 00:25 by Patton.
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- BikeDude2002
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- Today is a good day to ride...
22 Jun 2012 09:34 #530980
by BikeDude2002
78 KZ650 SR
90 Yamaha Radian
Replied by BikeDude2002 on topic 1982 kz 650 main fuse keeps blowing
Nameless,
Your issue sounds like a direct short, probably in the tail harness, most likely in the blue wire on that circuit. I would think about looking at point where your tail harness connects to the main harness, and looking rearward. If I had to venture a guess, you have either a pinced harness in some area or the blue wire is touching in the area where it goes through the fender (bad grommet?) or shorting in the area where it goes under the 'clip' near the taillight. Good luck!
BikeDude2002
(Dan)
Your issue sounds like a direct short, probably in the tail harness, most likely in the blue wire on that circuit. I would think about looking at point where your tail harness connects to the main harness, and looking rearward. If I had to venture a guess, you have either a pinced harness in some area or the blue wire is touching in the area where it goes through the fender (bad grommet?) or shorting in the area where it goes under the 'clip' near the taillight. Good luck!
BikeDude2002
(Dan)
78 KZ650 SR
90 Yamaha Radian
The following user(s) said Thank You: Nameless
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- Nameless
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22 Jun 2012 16:10 #531034
by Nameless
Replied by Nameless on topic 1982 kz 650 main fuse keeps blowing
Thanks Dan,
I'll give it a shot this weekend.
I'll give it a shot this weekend.
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- gsnfl
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08 Aug 2015 08:06 #684902
by gsnfl
77 KZ650 C1 basket case project-blowed up and parted out
83 KZ550 M1-Prince to Toecutter transition
Replied by gsnfl on topic 1982 kz 650 main fuse keeps blowing
Old topic I stumbled upon looking for something else but my problem was that I has a slightly taller non-standard battery in mine and when I hit a bump, my fat ass compressed the seat and completed a circuit across the terminals thus blowing the main.
Good luck if this the problem!
Good luck if this the problem!
77 KZ650 C1 basket case project-blowed up and parted out
83 KZ550 M1-Prince to Toecutter transition
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