No Spark- recommendations

Hey guys,

I picked up a 76 KZ400 the other day that isn't running. Everything looks like from the factory- a real survivor bike.

Seems like fuel isn't an issue, but I've got no spark. Just wanted some recommendations on where to start? Are there some parts of the ignition system that are more likely or have been known to fail.


Was looking at a replacement coil, has anyone had experience with the EMGO coil from Bikebandit.com? Any thoughts?

www.bikebandit.com/emgo-points-style-ignition-coil?b=2416572

Thanks,

Bob

Testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils For Input Voltage

When voltage testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils, the following needs to be done:

1. Remove the fuel/gas tank to access the coils.

2. Fully charge the battery.

3. Using a multimeter, set it up for VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

4. Turn on the ignition switch and the run/stop switch to “Run”.

5. Put the multimeter’s RED probe on where the red or red/yellow wire goes on the ignition coil.

6. Put the multimeter’s BLACK probe on either the battery Negative(-) post/terminal or a good frame ground.

7. You should be able to see battery voltage at the ignition coil connection, but this depends on the current draw of other items in the same circuit.

8. If the tested voltage is down to 8-9 volts, you probably need to clean the many and various electrical connectors.

9. To check the spark output at the sparkplugs, use these:
Ignition Spark Testers
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8 Instead of grounding the sparkplug with the sparkplug wire attached, looking for a spark. This method puts the IC Igniter and ignition coils at risk of failure due to high currents, and possible internal shorting.


If you have no input voltage to the coil(s), see if there is voltage to the run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod. If still no voltage, start checking back through the various electrical connectors and then the ignition switch.

Thanks. Looks like a good plan to start!

If, while inspecting the connections on the switches, you encounter failed or failing soldered joints, here's a repair procedure:

Read this for a primer on hand soldering: technologyinterface.nmsu.edu/fall97/electronics/solder.html

Repairing Motorcycle Soldered Connections on the older bikes.

When repairing soldered wires on motorcycle switches or light bulbs sockets, have the following on hand:

1. A 25 Watt soldering iron or one that the wattage can be adjusted.

2. Rosin core solder of 60/40 type. SN60 or SN63 is preferred.

3. Rosin flux or soldering paste (Never use solder or soldering paste designed for plumbing work, as it contains an acid that will corrode the electrical joint, ruining it).

4. 91% rubbing Alcohol, or 70%. The lower percentage will clean up flux residue, but not as good as the higher percentage stuff. Acetone does a good job of removing excess solder flux too.

5. A cut down ½” paint brush, or acid brush for scrubbing the repaired solder joint.

6. Clean rags or paper towels

7. A damp sponge to keep the soldering iron tip clean.

8. Some “Solder Wick” a braided bare copper wire designed to collect heated excess solder, aiding in joint preperation, available at electronic supply stores.

9. Some wooden toothpicks.

10. Small Hemostats or clip on heatsinks.

A. Before soldering, “Tin” the soldering iron tip by plugging it in or turning the iron on, allowing it to get to operating temperature(2-3 minutes).

B. Unroll about 3” of solder from the roll of rosin core solder & then using a clean rag or paper towel moistened with Alcohol, wipe the unrolled solder, removing the finger print oils that will create a poor solder joint.

C. Apply a small amount of solder to the now heated soldering iron tip, wiping the excess off with the wet sponge, keeping a thin layer on the soldering iron.

D. The soldering iron is now ready for use, but before applying the heated tip to a wire, wipe the tip on the damp sponge, this removes any oxidized solder and makes for a much better connection.

E. If the joint to be repaired is grey in color or appears “Crumbled”, apply some rosin soldering paste or flux to the joint with a small toothpick or screwdriver, and then apply the soldering iron tip for a few seconds.

G. The fluxed joint should clean up, allowing for a better connection. If no luck, use the solder wick to remove all traces of the old solder by apply in it between the soldering iron tip and the bad joint.

H. Hemostats and clip on heatsinks will be used to prevent the wire insulation from burning, overheating & pulling away from the connection.

I. Apply a small amount of flux to the joint to be repaired & then a very short duration of heated soldering iron tip & solder(like a few seconds or so).


J. Clean off the repaired joint with the brush & rubbing Alcohol or Acetone, the newly repaired joint should appear clean and bright, almost as if it were polished, with no voids or holes.

K. When repairing the bad or "Cold Solder Joints" (as the Electronics industry calls them), it takes really no special skills, just patience, and a place to work(along with the mentioned tools. You've got to be sober, and not stoned, as the soldering tool can be at 700 F, possibly giving the impaired bike owner severe burns.

L. If you have fine muscle control problems, have a friend do the soldering for you. Moving a wire before the electrical joint has properly set up, can create "Cold Joints" too. If possible, practice on the bench top with some scrap wires before attempting repairs on the bike.

M. This information comes from years of missile test cable and equipment assembly, when I worked at General Dynamics/Convair Division in San Diego California, on the BGM-109 Tomahawk and later on the AGM-129 Advanced Cruise Missile. This was from 1983-1993. The company had a week long soldering school, where you learned to solder meeting “Mil-Spec” standards.

Probably a closed up or dirty point contact set. Check your points, they ground and then un ground the coil to charge up the primary side. So you should have two wires there on the primary side of the coil, 1 is power, might be red, the other is the points. It should make then break ground connection as the motor is rotated. A Ohm Meter or test light will tell you if they are working. The gap there is important, as it controls the charge time for the coil, see Dwell.

Hey there freemonty thought I would chime in here be sure the plug wires are good because after replacing the coils with new ones I still had no spark on 1 and 4 although I had a failing multimeter which led me to think that coil was bad... when in fact it wasnt but about 2 inches of the plug wires were bad on the coil side just fried and broken inside the insulation

Remove your spark plugs from the head so the engine can turn over easily with the kickstart. Remove your points cover and watch the points open and close as you push the kickstart with your hand. It's possible the points aren't opening or their surface is corroded and needs to be cleaned with a points file or a fingernail file or emery cloth. I have a 77KZ400 , bought it for $50 because previous owner couldn't get it running. He tried new plugs, rebuilt carbs,etc. but he never checked the points!

Best of Luck!

freemonty wrote: Hey guys,

I picked up a 76 KZ400 the other day that isn't running. Everything looks like from the factory- a real survivor bike.

Seems like fuel isn't an issue, but I've got no spark. Just wanted some recommendations on where to start? Are there some parts of the ignition system that are more likely or have been known to fail.


Was looking at a replacement coil, has anyone had experience with the EMGO coil from Bikebandit.com? Any thoughts?

www.bikebandit.com/emgo-points-style-ignition-coil?b=2416572

Thanks,

Bob

I am running the four Ohm EMGO coil on my 750 twin, works great.

If you have no spark, check the points. Make sure the blue wire (to the points) shows short to ground with points closed and open circuit when they are open.

Check to make sure the hot side of the coil (yellow red wire) is getting 12V.

This is what I was looking for

also check the condensor on the points! that's the first thing i would replace. i'm sure you can test them but mine went out with no warning and looks brand new! could not figure out what the deal was, well luckily my kz400 i bought a while back came with an extra one so i threw it on my 750, started right up.

With the ignition switch ON, how much voltage is being received by the coil (usually via a red wire or a red/yellow wire) ?

Good Fortune!