2 of 4 firing Spectre 750.

I feel this problem is electrical in nature so I'm posting in this section, however I may post it in the engine section if need be. My problem now is cylinders 3 & 4 are the only two firing. I pulled the plugs on 1 & 2 and they both are wet with gas. I was going to test the ignition coils but my shop manual is a bit vague on testing proceedure. Anyway, I unhooked the ignition coil that controls cylinders 2 & 3. I forgot it was unplugged when i started the bike back up. With the ignition coil unhooked now cylinder 1 & 4 are firing while 2 & 3 are cold. This is the first time the number 1 cylinder has fired since i got it. I know this is a clue but I'm no sherlock. Does this mean something to anyone?

I've got new plugs and wires on the way.

It almost sounds like 1 & 2 wires were on the wrong plugs. Now that 1 & 4 are firing, what happens if you reconnect the 2&3 coil? Ed

I'm pretty sure the wires are on the correct plug. Number 2 wire isnt even long enough to reach 1. It still has the factory numbering on the wires. Hooked everything back up and now no 1, 3 and 4 are now firing. Very strange. As usual all connections are clean and tight. No 2 cylinder is still cold.

Do a compression check of a 4 and post back. Checked the valve clearances?


Testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils For Input Voltage

When voltage testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils, the following needs to be done:

1. Remove the fuel/gas tank to access the coils.

2. Fully charge the battery.

3. Using a multimeter, set it up for VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

4. Turn on the ignition switch and the run/stop switch to “Run”.

5. Put the multimeter’s RED probe on where the red or red/yellow wire goes on the ignition coil.

6. Put the multimeter’s BLACK probe on either the battery Negative(-) post/terminal or a good frame ground.

7. You should be able to see battery voltage at the ignition coil connection, but this depends on the current draw of other items in the same circuit.

8. If the tested voltage is down to 8-9 volts, you probably need to clean the many and various electrical connectors.

9. To check the spark output at the sparkplugs, use these:
Ignition Spark Testers
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8 Instead of grounding the sparkplug with the sparkplug wire attached, looking for a spark. This method puts the IC Igniter and ignition coils at risk of failure due to high currents, and possible internal shorting.


Ignition Coil Primary And Secondary Wiring

Ignition coils on the 80’s Kz1000,Kz1100’s and Gpz1100’s are wired the same, that is as you sit on the bike, the LEFT ignition coil primary(small wires) are two wires, RED and BLACK. The secondary (or sparkplug wires) go to #1 and #4 sparkplugs(your primary wiring may be different).

The 550’s, 650’s, 700’s & 750’s are backwards to what is listed for the bigger 4’s.

The cylinders are numbered left to right as you sit on the seat; #1,#2,#3, and #4.

For the RIGHT ignition coil, the primary wires, again are two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary going to #2 and #3.

The RED wire gets it’s voltage from the run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod. Your primary wiring may have a different color.

The BLACK and GREEN wires connect to the IC Igniter(if the bike has the Kawasaki supplied electronic ignition) it actually gives the coils their grounds to fire the sparkplugs.

Primary(small wires) side of the coils will read between 1.8 to 3.0 ohms.

Secondary(sparkplug wire ports)side of the coil will read between 10.4K to 15.6K ohms. These ports are wired together, so it makes no difference which is used, as long as the correct coil to sparkplug configuration is followed.

The sparkplug caps should read 5K OHMS(5000), any higher, or a reading of infinity means new caps should be ordered. When re-installing the old or new sparkplug caps, cut about ¼” off the sparkplug wires for a new un-corroded connection.

Never run supression sparkplug wires with sparkplug caps containing the 5000 ohm resistor, as now there will be two (2) resistances in the ignition coil’s secondary circuit, causing weak and intermittent spark.


To stress the ignition coils, take a hair dryer, heat the coils and see if the ohm readings change from cold to hot . If they do, it’s time to buy new coils.

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Keep in mind, the wiring is reversed for the 550’s, 650‘s,700’s, and 750‘s, that is the RIGHT coil primary will be two wires, RED and BLACK with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #1 and #4.

The LEFT coils primary wiring would be again two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #2 and #3.

An indication of black and sooty sparkplugs may not mean a carb or carbs are in need of cleaning, but may mean the input voltage is low.

When checking the input voltage to the ignition coils, first have a fully charged battery, and the using a multimeter, set it up to measure VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

Put the RED probe from the multimeter on the same terminal that either a RED wire or ones that’s RED with YELLOW stripe, and the BLACK probe on either a good frame/Earth ground or the battery Negative(-) terminal/post.


These engines have what is known as a “Wasted Spark” that is, a sparkplug will fire during an exhaust stroke. It does no damage and many other motorcycle engines have this design.

Compression is good. It's about 100-150 in all cylinders. I'll have to borrow some feeler gauges from my dad to check the valve clearance.

I'm gonna run through the proceedure you posted for testing the coils, MFolks. That clears everything up. I'm learning as I go. I'll post my findings in the morning.


Thanks!

Spectre1982 wrote: I feel this problem is electrical in nature so I'm posting in this section, however I may post it in the engine section if need be. My problem now is cylinders 3 & 4 are the only two firing. I pulled the plugs on 1 & 2 and they both are wet with gas. I was going to test the ignition coils but my shop manual is a bit vague on testing proceedure. Anyway, I unhooked the ignition coil that controls cylinders 2 & 3. I forgot it was unplugged when i started the bike back up. With the ignition coil unhooked now cylinder 1 & 4 are firing while 2 & 3 are cold. This is the first time the number 1 cylinder has fired since i got it. I know this is a clue but I'm no sherlock. Does this mean something to anyone?

I've got new plugs and wires on the way.

Perhaps due to a weak battery, or insufficient power to coils (for whatever reason).

Would remove each plug and look for fat blue sparks while spinning over the engine.

Good Fortune!

I tested both coils and they check out. Seeing as the bike is now running on three cylinders I don't think it's an electrical issue. I checked the spark on No. 2 cylinder (the cold cylinder) and it's a good spark. No problems there. My problem must lie in fuel delivery. On an unrelated note, it seems as though I'm still having shorting problems on the main fuse. Back to the drawing board.