Removing a stator coil from the stator cover...

The thing is really stuck in there and I don't want to trash it in any way.

I'm talking about one of these ...currently I've got the stator cover off and the stator is stuck where it belongs on the inside of the cover. I removed the three retaining bolts, and the thing will not budge.

What are my options?

I can provide pictures, if they will help. But I suspect this is a common occurrence...

Let's go through the steps:

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼" and 3/8" ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.

6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Some bikes may have Torx style fasteners, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.

9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen or Torx fasteners, securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexi-glass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One (1)WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One(1) smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One(1) BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three(3) YELLOW wires, maybe 14 gauge in size, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

With the fasteners removed, you might find that the heat from the oil has "Welded" the stator to the alternator housing, and might need help with a hair dryer on high to loosen up the bond.

If no luck, try a propane torch, but carefully, as you don't want to "Cook" the wiring.

Put a piece of wood on the floor, then invert the cover and let it drop from a foot or so. The weight of the coil and the small impact might get it to drop out. Also as mentioned by Mfolks, use a bit of heat on the cover.

Thanks for the advice. I will see if either of those options help.

I feel that things would be easier if there were some way I could, you know, grab onto the coil to pull it out. As it stands I can't get a grip on it without fearing damaging it...

Go to sears and buy an impact driver you smack with a hammer to loosen them.

there is oil in there ???

Yep, oil for engine lubrication and alternator cooling. If possible tilt the bike toward the right to lessen the amount of oil to deal with.

oh ok ...my stator cover is a bit twisted from the previous owner...and oil sprays right out of around there when i start it ...

all this time i thought i the seal or base gasket was blown

spark23ca wrote: there is oil in there ???

Depends on the model.

Some KZ's have a sealed/dry alternator housing. Some have openings to the crankcase oil.

I believe the 750 twins have oil around the alternator. The 750K1 is a twin.

The 750 inline-fours do not have oil around the alternator, from what I recall.

spark23ca wrote: ...[et al]....

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