Re-wiring diagram for 92 KZ1000P

Started one thread on this already, but I am hoping to get some more responses this time. I have the wiring diagram that is nothing but a bunch of small black lines running back and forth between some really fine print, which has helped me realize just how screwed I am right now. I am looking for a rewire diagram for any KZ1000p that would work for the 92 KZ1000p. I am looking to just get the basics right now, then I can move into getting the headlight, tail light and blinkers. Heck I could care less right now if I ever get the gauges to eluminate again. As long as I get her to start. I have seen several diagrams but nothing particular to this year model. Should I continue to use the same connectors that hook in next to the battery box that run to the rectifier and regulator? Should I take them out completely all together and just connect them myself? I know they are still good under there, my problem was under the tank where everything got melted together. I have emailed "loudhvx" hoping he can get me something, everything I have seen and read or been getting responses about says he can get me what I need. Don't mean to rush him, but just can't stand walking by her and seeing her pieces and not on the road.

MtStateMike wrote: Started one thread on this already, but I am hoping to get some more responses this time. I have the wiring diagram that is nothing but a bunch of small black lines running back and forth between some really fine print, which has helped me realize just how screwed I am right now. I am looking for a rewire diagram for any KZ1000p that would work for the 92 KZ1000p. I am looking to just get the basics right now, then I can move into getting the headlight, tail light and blinkers. Heck I could care less right now if I ever get the gauges to eluminate again. As long as I get her to start. I have seen several diagrams but nothing particular to this year model. Should I continue to use the same connectors that hook in next to the battery box that run to the rectifier and regulator? Should I take them out completely all together and just connect them myself? I know they are still good under there, my problem was under the tank where everything got melted together. I have emailed "loudhvx" hoping he can get me something, everything I have seen and read or been getting responses about says he can get me what I need. Don't mean to rush him, but just can't stand walking by her and seeing her pieces and not on the road.

Perhaps this link would be helpful (was posted recently by MFolks in some other thread) --
www.cyclepsycho.com/kz1000p/kz1000p.html

Good Fortune!

Thanks, I appreaciate it. I have that one from my other post. But it is like reading another language and the wiring is really hard to follow as to what goes where. Hoping someone has just the basics for this model. If I can get it to turn over to run, I can figure the rest out. Just having a hard time getting between the iginition, engine run stop switch, starter button and I think the starter stop switch. I have power going up to the iginition switch, then when key is on I have power to all four(4) wire running to the coils, but can't seem to get it right with my starter button. I think I fried it. Going to take that wire today and touch it off the hot wire running from the ignition switch to the engine run stop switch that also feeds the starter button and see what happens. Can't hurt any worse than where I am right now.

I think I have the rectifier and regulator hooked up right. I think!!!!

Ok, think I got the wiring figured out and my starter button is bad. Just jumped it to another hot wire and got it to turn over. On the way to recovery.

I'll post some helpful tips about the electrical problems on these older bikes. The first will cover cleaning the many and various switches and connectors:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

1. Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).

2. On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

3. Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

4. However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

5. Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

6. Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

7. Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

8. If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

9. The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. The older Kawasaki’s have reports of the soldered connections crumbling, if your bike has this problem, just ask, as I’ve got a repair procedure for this.

10. Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

11. The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

12. If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

13. Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

14. All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

15. Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

16. If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

17. Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

18. The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

20. The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

21. Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

22. Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “

From a forum member at www.kzrider.com

This one covers repairing the possible "Crumbled" solder connections on handlebar switches:

Read this for a primer on hand soldering: technologyinterface.nmsu.edu/fall97/electronics/solder.html

Repairing Motorcycle Soldered Connections on the older bikes.

When repairing soldered wires on motorcycle switches or light bulbs sockets, have the following on hand:

1. A 25 Watt soldering iron or one that the wattage can be adjusted.

2. Rosin core solder of 60/40 type. SN60 or SN63 is preferred.

3. Rosin flux or soldering paste (Never use solder or soldering paste designed for plumbing work, as it contains an acid that will corrode the electrical joint, ruining it).

4. 91% rubbing Alcohol, or 70%. The lower percentage will clean up flux residue, but not as good as the higher percentage stuff. Acetone does a good job of removing excess solder flux too.

5. A cut down ½” paint brush, or acid brush for scrubbing the repaired solder joint.

6. Clean rags or paper towels

7. A damp sponge to keep the soldering iron tip clean.

8. Some “Solder Wick” a braided bare copper wire designed to collect heated excess solder, aiding in joint preperation, available at electronic supply stores.

9. Some wooden toothpicks.

10. Small Hemostats or clip on heatsinks.

A. Before soldering, “Tin” the soldering iron tip by plugging it in or turning the iron on, allowing it to get to operating temperature(2-3 minutes).

B. Unroll about 3” of solder from the roll of rosin core solder & then using a clean rag or paper towel moistened with Alcohol, wipe the unrolled solder, removing the finger print oils that will create a poor solder joint.

C. Apply a small amount of solder to the now heated soldering iron tip, wiping the excess off with the wet sponge, keeping a thin layer on the soldering iron.

D. The soldering iron is now ready for use, but before applying the heated tip to a wire, wipe the tip on the damp sponge, this removes any oxidized solder and makes for a much better connection.

E. If the joint to be repaired is grey in color or appears “Crumbled”, apply some rosin soldering paste or flux to the joint with a small toothpick or screwdriver, and then apply the soldering iron tip for a few seconds.

G. The fluxed joint should clean up, allowing for a better connection. If no luck, use the solder wick to remove all traces of the old solder by apply in it between the soldering iron tip and the bad joint.

H. Hemostats and clip on heatsinks will be used to prevent the wire insulation from burning, overheating & pulling away from the connection.

I. Apply a small amount of flux to the joint to be repaired & then a very short duration of heated soldering iron tip & solder(like a few seconds or so).


J. Clean off the repaired joint with the brush & rubbing Alcohol or Acetone, the newly repaired joint should appear clean and bright, almost as if it were polished, with no voids or holes.

K. When repairing the bad or "Cold Solder Joints" (as the Electronics industry calls them), it takes really no special skills, just patience, and a place to work(along with the mentioned tools. You've got to be sober, and not stoned, as the soldering tool can be at 700 F, possibly giving the impaired bike owner severe burns.

L. If you have fine muscle control problems, have a friend do the soldering for you. Moving a wire before the electrical joint has properly set up, can create "Cold Joints" too. If possible, practice on the bench top with some scrap wires before attempting repairs on the bike.

M. This information comes from years of missile test cable and equipment assembly, when I worked at General Dynamics/Convair Division in San Diego California, on the BGM-109 Tomahawk and later on the AGM-129 Advanced Cruise Missile. This was from 1983-1993. The company had a week long soldering school, where you learned to solder meeting “Mil-Spec” standards.

Got it to run tonight. Took the entire harness out and worked from there. Going to work on lights, switches and relays next. then got to put some type of cover over my wires and riding again. Thanks for all the help.

Electrical Wire Harness Tapes(the non sticky type)
www.pcsconnectors.com/harness_tape.aspx
www.deadnutson.com/catalog/item/2965331/6122491.htm
www.tapebrothers.com
www.wiringharness.com
www.findtape.com/shop/product.aspx?id=32...&width=1436&height=0

Split loom coverings are also available, making troubleshooting much easier:
order.waytekwire.com/scategory2/M50/380/...om/Wire%20Coverings/
order.waytekwire.com/products2/M50/380/6...it/Wire%20Coverings/