Coil Concern

82 J motor in a 1980 KZ1000 LTD. The pickup coils on the electronic ignition are hooked up just like the manual says, but coil (1) fires cylinders 2-3 while coil (2) fires 1-4. It is supposed to be the other way around according to the manual. What is going on here?

Sounds like your wires are crossed at the coils, try switching the wires from one coil to the other and visa versa

badrhino wrote: 82 J motor in a 1980 KZ1000 LTD. The pickup coils on the electronic ignition are hooked up just like the manual says, but coil (1) fires cylinders 2-3 while coil (2) fires 1-4. It is supposed to be the other way around according to the manual. What is going on here?

May be able to swap the black and green wires that connect to the coils.


Stock Kawasaki electronic ignition with igniter:



Dyna-S ignition (no igniter):



The wire shown as feeding positive voltage from the battery is sometimes solid red in color and sometimes red and yellow.

Good Fortune!

All the wires are hooked up according to color but that doesn't mean much on this bike since it is a Frankenturd. LOL It's OK to run it as is isn't it?....it's just bass ackwards.

badrhino wrote: All the wires are hooked up according to color but that doesn't mean much on this bike since it is a Frankenturd. LOL It's OK to run it as is isn't it?....it's just bass ackwards.

Perfectly okay, so long as signal wire for #1/4 connects to coil for #1/4, and signal wire for #2/3 connects to coil for #2/3.

For example, stock configuration of large Kaw fours is with left-hand coil firing #1/4 and right-hand coil firing #2/3.

On KZ650, stock configuration is with left-hand coil firing #2/3 and right-hand coil firing #1/4.

The spark plug pairs don't care where their coil happens to be positioned on the bike.

Good Fortune!

Do you check the ohm reading through the plug wire wire with the bike is running?

Also my battery is about shot from all of this trying to start the bike crap. How important is it to have a good battery or does the bike mostly run off of the charging system after running?

badrhino wrote: Do you check the ohm reading through the plug wire wire with the bike is running?

Also my battery is about shot from all of this trying to start the bike crap. How important is it to have a good battery or does the bike mostly run off of the charging system after running?

Coil ohm readings for primary winding and secondary winding are done with the engine not running and with the ignition switched OFF.

Would just charge the battery, and have it load-tested if doubtful of its condition.
Also assure integrity of the ground connection where the negative battery cable attaches to rear of engine, as this connection sometimes deteriorates or corrodes thereby providing a poor ground.

The bike's ignition and chassis circuits run off the battery.
The charging system is supposed to just keep the battery charged.

It would be okay to jump the bike battery from a known good car battery, provided the car engine is never cranked or allowed to run while the jumper cables are attached. This is because the car's charging system will likely fry electrical stuff on the bike.

Could set a known good fully charged car battery on the bike's passenger seat, and jump it to the bike battery while testing.

When jumping batteries, it's best to first connect positive to positive. And lastly connect negative to negative. This avoids sparks that may otherwise occur when connecting positive to positive.

Good Fortune!

No to your first question.

You need a fully charged battery. Roy

You should really have a battery that is fully charged. Even so you should have the same voltage at the coils as your battery.

badrhino wrote: ...trying to start the bike....

Requires: COMPRESSION (acceptable) , SPARK (healthy and properly timed), and FUEL mixture (correct).
Just those three things.

Does each plug have observable fat blue sparks?
If adjustable, is ignition timing correct?
Is the timing advancer lubed and functional?

Compression test been performed?
Valve clearances within specs?

Ample fuel supply through in-line filter to carbs?
Carb primary and choke circuits up to par?
Pilot screws set at default positions per FMS?
Carbs properly fitted to the engine?
Carb clamps snug and untorn?
No uncapped vacuum nipples?
No air leaks from poorly fitted or cracked vacuum hose?
Carb vent hoses exiting to open air?
Float valves functional?

Petcock allowing fuel to pass from tank through line to in-line filter?
In-line filter free flowing?
Fuel lines not kinked?

Clear unobstructed air filter?

Choke on and throttle grip not touched when attempting to start engine?
Kill switch in RUN position?
Transmission in neutral with clutch lever being squeezed?
Kick stand not deployed?

Good Fortune!