Kz650 b1 slow drain

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14 May 2012 21:37 - 14 May 2012 21:38 #522393 by Mullineaux
Kz650 b1 slow drain was created by Mullineaux
So I turned the ignition on and nothing, no headlight, nuthin. I just took it off the maintainer last week. I charged up the battery and when I disconnected the negative terminal (and the charger) and was getting 12.9 volts @.04amps with everything off between the battery and the ground wire. Something is slowly draining my battery. I disconnected the electric ignition I recently installed as well as the coil wire mod and it still persisted. Also popped each fuse and most of the bullet connectors under the tank, no change. I'm not blowingany fuses, my battery is just dying. Is there anything known to slow leak current like this? Any good places to start?

KZ650 ( '77 Engine, '78 frame, 80's ignition, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Pods, lowered [links])
1980 XS1100 full Vetter dresser
Last edit: 14 May 2012 21:38 by Mullineaux.

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14 May 2012 22:07 #522403 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic Kz650 b1 slow drain
This testing method can be used to find out why your battery is slowly draining:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one. Just 1, not both!

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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