Starter Solenoid just clicking !

Ok, if anyone is wondering how to make a shunt this is what Google came up with

www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=393591



^^^^^^^^^ Or is that not big enough to handle the current?, would a 100A shunt be more suitable?

Steve, the link I posted does explain how to make one with 2 alligator clips and a length of wire. Just look at the bottom of the link.
I quote from his post
"the best part is that the shunt is ridiculously easy to make yourself. Simply solder a Mueller #27 alligator clip to each end of a piece of #8 stranded copper wire. But be very careful about the following three specifics. First, the wire must be #8 stranded copper, available at any home improvement center, and the Mueller #27 alligator clips must be carefully soldered so that the solder does not wick up the wire. This is critical, as it affects the tool’s resistance and therefore its accuracy. Finally, the shunt’s length from clip to clip (not end to end) must be exactly 6 5/8". This is important, as an error of only a quarter inch will throw off the tool’s readability."

Sorry Bruce, i got so into the explaination in that article i kinda didn't see that!

I don't have the #8 AWG wire here that he uses but i have the solid copper wire used in the article i posted but i think thats not going to have enough current rating, its 9.17pm here so i'll see if i can pick some up tomorrow.

I have some 16mm Stuff here as thats what i used for my starter motor & battery cable (no messing there eh??? :laugh: ), that equates to #5 AWG, the shunt would be way too short & i couldn't find any clips big enough for it im sure

Ok, here are today's findings;
I drained the oil & pulled the side cover off to check the small starter cog was still in place, pressed the starter button & nothing happened, immediately i thought it was the wiring. The bikes battery (when removed) turned both starters over at the same rate when connected directly, i took them out to my car & its battery turned both of them as the same rate as the bike battery.

I refitted 1 starter to the bike & checked it again, it spun. I refitted the cog & chain, pulled the plug leads off the bike & hit the starter (bear in mind im charging the battery in between all this, i didn't use it below 12.5V) & this time the engine turned over but VERY slowly, nowhere near the rate it needed turned at to start. I pulled the starter & fitted the spare starter, it done the same thing. A couple of dabs on the starter & the battery was at 10ish Volts.



Bad points
1/ I'm suspecting its the battery, i seriously hope its just a faulty one as theres no way i can fit a much bigger battery in, i can go kick start only but i was hoping that could be just used for back up.
2/ I have no idea why the solenoid was just clicking at 1 point, the engine may have been at TDC everytime but i doubt that as it was started with the kick start about 5 times in 2 days..............i therefore don't know what the problen was that caused the origination of this thread.

Good Points
1/ Well at least i know the wiring is sound!

I'm getting the battery tested tomorrow so i'll see hw that goes. When i connect the meter to the battery terminals i get
Ignition off - 13V
Ignition on - 12.5V
Starter button pushed - 4.5V

Obviously theres something wrong there

Possibly a badly assembled battery. Is it Chinese made? I understand they have a ways to go regarding quality and expected standards for their products.

Here in the U.S., there's been dog death's attributed to rawhide treats made in China, I believe it's a brand called "Waggen Trails".

I have no idea where they are assembled, it says on the Shorai website that their cells are Japanese so they are mane in some area in the far east, I suspect China as the word 'Japan' is chucked into their sales pitch!


I'm getting it tested tomorrow.

Ok, gotta read through this post some more, but had to jump in with this.
Bruce (gd4now) and Mike (MFolks) have been helping you through this Steve, and you have been calling him Rob several times.
I can see how this was happening, and is just a mistake, but when I read this I've just got to set it sraight.


Back to the top to read some more....

rstnick wrote: Ok, gotta read through this post some more, but had to jump in with this.
Bruce (gd4now) and others have been helping you through this Steve, and you have been calling him Rob several times.
I can see how this was happening, and is just a mistake, but when I read this I've just got to set it sraight.


Back to the top to read some more....

Aw bollocks........i always get you 2 mixed up!! :blink: *edit* see....all sorted now!
sincere apologies Bruce, my head is cooking a bit over this & a few other things now that the bike is running.........i have a mental idle speed to deal with (2400RPM!!! but i think i know the cause) & a rich left cylinder which was rich before the carbs were rebiult, rejetted, cleaned & float levels checked........man this is some learning experience.

No problem Steve, I thought about correcting you on my name, but figured that if I gave you bad info it would be attribution to Rob - just kidding.

I just thought it was more important to try to help you than to worry about what name you were calling me.

You say the bike is running now - have you solved the starter issue?

:laugh:

The bike is running, yes, but ONLY with the kick start. I should have the battery test results soon

Ok, here's the battery test on the Volkswagen Tester

OK - it looks like you have found the problem - the battery is toast.