coil issue

I have no sparks coming out of my plugs on coil(2&3). I checked the primary and secondary resistances, and found 3.7 ohms and 15K ohms respectively which is within the proper boundaries. Next I checked continuity in my plug wires which was fine. By the way, this is a brand new wires/plugs/Dyna coils setup as of a year ago. So I decided to switch the coil leads. I sent the two wires from coil(1&4) [which is working] to the "bad" coil...... and the opposite; coil(2&3) leads [the "bad one"] to coil(1&4). And this switched the problem. The switching of leads switched the sparks.


So I have obviously narrowed the problem to the leads of (2&3) since it doesn't matter which coil goes where. Now, my question is what I have narrowed down, BECAUSE, I checked the voltages at the leads of the working coil(1&4) leads, and they are the same as the "bad" leads. All 4 wires(leads) coming in with the ignition switch turned on register 10.2 volts.


I don't know if that is right or wrong, a problem or not. It is obvious both coils and everything past there to the engine is fine since the problem moves. But I don't know what "problem" I am looking for now. Please help.


Thnxs.


~interestingly enough, this may be the problem that I have been having for 2 weeks with the #2 cylinder, maybe it has just gotten worse so now I have no spark in both plugs... either way it is a major running problem. Thanks for inputs.

check your points, i'll bet ya they are no good:P

I see you checked the secondary resistance, was this done with or w/out the plug wires (leads) installed?
And if done w/out them installed, when you then checked for continuity in the plug wires did you also re-check the secondary resistance again?
Also, was this done with or w/out the plug caps on the wires?

Since it's the only thing that you didn't mention, I'm leaning towards the plug caps (or plug wires) themselves being suspect, and/or possibly not having a firm, "fresh" connection between them.

Try trimming about 1/8" back on the plug wires and re-installing the plug caps to see if that helps.
Next would be to swap the spark plug caps to see if that makes any difference either.

I won't cost you anything to try this, other than about 10 mins and the small 1/8" reduction in the plug wire lengths. And it will at least confirm the integrity of the plug wires and caps.

cant be the plug wires he switched the power and ground leads and the spark moved to the 2/3 coil from the 1/4
thus no signal to coil from the points:)

I appreciate the thoughts thus far, but it seems that my post was not read very carefully.... It is clearly not the wires or the caps.


regarding points, I don't have any.... should have said so originally. I have a Dyna Electronic Ignition(1 year old). Now, I suppose it is possible that something has shot in there, but again, it is not a lack of power to the leads, because all 4 have significant voltage out of them.


more thoughts regarding the first post?

ok you have a dyna ignition , you know your coils, plug wires and plugs are ok, you know it's not mechanical with the engine, but your only sure of half of the ignition this is what i would be going after myself, do you have the installation instructions for the dyna? if so i would belive there should be a trouble shooting guide in it or at least a way to check the pickups, if not you can go to www.dynaonline.com under product support and download the manual, I still belive you are missing the signal for the 2/3 to fire, one wire usually the white/red should be power to coils secound wire should be black and this is your pulsating signal wire from the dyna to coil Hope this helps

Post edited by: jbw7300, at: 2006/06/04 05:50

Post edited by: jbw7300, at: 2006/06/04 05:51

Post edited by: jbw7300, at: 2006/06/04 05:52

Much thanks for the last post, I followed thru with your thoughts, additionally, I switched the signal leads from the Dyna to the coil just to see..... (in other words, green wire to black lead and black wire to green lead) and sure enough the problem moved with the swap again. So this proves there is a problem with the ignition somewhere. So I went further and investigated my timing setup. I found the Power Module for 1 & 4 to be working fine, however when I test the other side(2 & 3) it stays on the entire time. It never shuts off. More specifically, with the 12V test light, as the engine rotates thru the advance timing marks, past the F mark, and all the way around, the light remains on the whole time. I played around with all various adjustments on the module location and nothing I could do would turn it off. I took the module right off the Dyna plate, and the test light still remained on. This has to be the problem, and my question here is basically what is wrong? Is the power module shot? Or do I just have some sort of short somewhere?


Thanks for any thoughts.


~I am planning on calling Dynatek as well.

I read the install manual for the dyna from there site from what I understand the module is bad sorry I hope they have a good warentee

Man, I'm glad I read this post...I need to look in this area also as it sounds similar to the problems I'm having.

How did you confirm your trouble on 2 cylinders? Holding the plugs against ground and checking spark?

Post edited by: savedrider, at: 2006/06/08 21:58

Post edited by: savedrider, at: 2006/06/08 21:59

I had the same problem last year with a Dyna S, 1/4 module was bad. Unit was at least 3 years old. Sent Dyna an E-mail and, if memory serves me, I sent them the unit, (whole plate with the two modules attached, they said it was out of waranty BUT they gave me a new unit.

I think they only charged me for shipping ($10-12).

Dyna was extremely helpful. They will treat you right.