Starting engine with lights on.... KZ1100 Ltd

I feel sure this subject is covered somewhere on this forum, but I can't for the life of me find it.

So.... I've got a KZ1100 Ltd that was imported into the UK in 1994. Because its an American bike it has the lights on right from start-up. There is no off/on switch for the lights as there is on European bikes. My old Z1100 had a switch, so I didn't have this problem...

I ride with my lights on all the time to aid being seen, along with a high vis bib, but it really goes against the grain consuming battery power whilst starting the engine. It's a big old lump to turn over. One day the battery's going to be a bit down and I'm gonna get caught out.

Is there a simple work around or mod that I can sort this with that you guys have used. Thanks in anticipation...

I was able to figure out how to do it by using a 77 control with the off/on switch and wire harness to hook up to my 78 harness.
The wire colors matched up.

I'm not sure what you would have to do with a 94, I'm sure it is a lot different,
but if there is a 94 model that has the ability to turn the lights off I would suggest that you compare wiring diagrams.

If there is a 94 or there a bouts with the switch option, maybe you can find one with a harness and it might be easy enough.

Here is the link to my adventure in light switching, it explains a little more.
kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/490373-i-...rn-off-the-headlight

Hope this helps,good luck

JD

Yes, you are right it's really hard on the battery. My '79 KZ750 would eat a battery about every 18 months starting with lights on, and now the batteries last 5 - 6 years.

There is a simple mod:

Down by the fuse box, you can add a relay for each "main branch" of electricity thet opens when the starter relay is activated. Just be sure to insert then after the point where power to the ignition is so the ignition stays hot.

On mine it was really easy: main power from the battery came in through a 20A fuse then went off three ways: to the ignition switch and coil, and two other branches each fused at 8A apiece. One fed the headlight and some dashboard lights, the other fed tail, brake, turn sigs, horn, etc. I installed a relay in front of each 8A branch line to cut them off when the starter relay activates.

30 and 40 amp relays(that's the current rating for the contacts) are available at most auto parts stores. If possible, get the pre-wired socket the relay plugs into, making wiring much easier.

www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_do_i_check_a_relay.htm
www.summitracing.com/parts/PCO-5591PT/
www.mcmelectronics.com/product/26-1942

Thanks everybody, your information is really helpful. I was toying with the idea of rigging up a switch to cut the power to the lights, but where on earth would I put it. The bars would have been the obvious choice but that would need over a metre run of wire...nah!

Relays it is. One question though. Most relays Ive seen advertised are either listed as "make and break" or "changeover"... is there any great difference or is this just different companies using different terminology?

That's the description of the timing of the contacts in the relay. Make and Break means that when activated the Normally Open set of contacts will close prior to the Normally Closed set opening. For what you are doing, I would go with Break and Make which is the opposite. It's not too terribly important for your application but it is the most appropriate one.
I've never looked but are there a set of Normally Closed contacts already on the solenoid or relay that operates the starter motor? If there are and they aren't already in use, you could wire your headlight power through them and solve your problem.

DiamondSkyBlue1000 wrote: That's the description of the timing of the contacts in the relay. Make and Break means that when activated the Normally Open set of contacts will close prior to the Normally Closed set opening. For what you are doing, I would go with Break and Make which is the opposite. It's not too terribly important for your application but it is the most appropriate one.
I've never looked but are there a set of Normally Closed contacts already on the solenoid or relay that operates the starter motor? If there are and they aren't already in use, you could wire your headlight power through them and solve your problem.

Thanks a lot for that info Diamond, I'll be sure to check that out. The simpler I can make this job the happier I'll be. I do have a KZ1100 Shaft Service Manual so I'll peruse the wiring diagrams and see if I can wise myself up on that...