Testing KZ1000G Classic Igniter

I tested the IC Igniter. The manual told me to pull each set of plugs and ground them. Turn on ignition switch touch screwdriver to pick up coil. Number 2&3 plugs fire, but 1&4 do not spark. Do I have a bad 1&4 coil.

I'd do this test first:

Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup(Pulsing) coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(BEHIND A RIGHT SIDE, CD SIZED COVER) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of 2K, check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS. The 550’s,650’s & 750’s may be backwards to the Z1’s,Kz900’s,Kz1000’s & Kz1100’s.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6. Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.

7.Check the small 4 pin connector that the pickup coils connect to for corrosion/loose pins too.


If you have the original ignition coils, it's time for replacement. www.z1enterprises.com sells the popular Grey 2.2 ohm coils made by Dyna. you'll need new sparkplug wires(they sell them at Z1 too)Now the choice comes to supression or non supression sparkplug wires.

I checked the pick ups and they both were between 450 and 480. Can I switch the power from 2&3 to 1&4 to see if I have spark and if I do then is the IC Igniter bad. Thanks

Yes, that's any easy test to see if the igniter is working(it actually gives the ignition coils their grounds, sparking the coil).

Rather than spend $$$ for a new/used igniter, find "Loudhvx's" GM igniter replacement. He made a replacement using off the shelf igniter using GM electronic ignition parts on his GPz 550, and has been using it for many years. It only works on motorcycles with the mechanical ignition advancer.

With the ignition switch ON, is there full battery voltage at the "1&4" coil primary wiring terminal?

The coil charges while its primary wiring remains grounded through the igniter.

Upon signal from the pickup module, the igniter un-grounds the coil, which causes the coil to fire through the secondary loop.







Good Fortune!

I switched the wires from the ignitier and the 1&4 had spark. So I think my IC Igniter is bad. Thanks for all the help. I will post when I get a igniter.

Being the thorough mechanic I have inspected my entire ignition system and have found the CDI resistance checks to be way out of whack! The pickup coils resistance checked out good. The primary and secondary coils are border line. Dyna has coils for $130. I would rather buy a CDI. Does anyone sell just the CDI. Ebay has plenty but who know whether they will test out or work?
Hell I would love a coil and CDI set for$300 new with warranty but the DYNA for $400+ complete is pushing the envelope as far as cost vs my troubleshooting abilities. A whole new Ignition system would eliminate the ignition system from the root cause of my problem. Can I have spark and still have a suspect CDI. My hypothosis is my bad Idle problems is being caused by weak spark, indicated by black sooty plugs and engine slow to decelerate after revving.
Any input from you fine mechanical gurus?