Lights don't work and plugs won't spark

Update #3:

Don't ask me how, but I got the bike running. The light stilll arne't working, but I'm just going to rewire them manually to avoid the headache of a wiring diagnosis project. However, it's only running on the interior cylinders. The two outer pipes are cold. This is obviously caused by the ignition coils. Strange though, that I can't seem to get a meter reading even on the working coil. I must not be touching the correct wire. I'll keep you all updated after I buy a new coil.

You've got a 650? the Right coil should go to #1 and #4 with the Left coil to #2 and #3 For some strange reason Kawasaki had the 550's,650's, and 750's wired backwards to the bigger 4's(900's,1000's and 1100's).

Also check the sparkplug caps(they unscrew from the sparkplug wires)using a multimeter, check the resistance as it should be 5000 ohms. If you're unsure on how to use a multimeter, just ask here.

MFolks wrote: You've got a 650? the Right coil should go to #1 and #4 with the Left coil to #2 and #3 For some strange reason Kawasaki had the 550's,650's, and 750's wired backwards to the bigger 4's(900's,1000's and 1100's).

You're correct. The right coil goes to the outside plugs. I'm a little embarrassed, however. The reason the coils weren't reading is I didn't turn the engine stop switch to run. Whoops. And btw, I've discovered a large crack on the problem coil. So I tested the coils with the switch to RUN and now both wires going to the working coil are reading about 10v. The red/yellow wire going to the problematic coil FROM the good coil is also reading 10v. The black wire, however, coming from the breaker points going to the problem coil is only reading .30. Is the problem the breaker points or coil?

Kawasaki ignition coils were marginal even when new, add years of baking under the tank, and it's time to replace them along with the sparkplugs. Dyna and Accel make a popular 3 ohm coil.

www.z1enterprises.com sells Dyna coils & sparkplug wires. Accel can be found at www.jpcycles.com and other websites.

Ok so I need your expert opinions:

Update #4:

I bought a used coil since the old one had a big ass crack down the middle of it. I tested the coil and plug wires that come off of it. Everything is hot and there is spark coming from the plug wire boots. Just in case they had fouled from sitting for a while, I bought new plugs for cylinders #1 & #4. I still don't have ignition in #4 at all and only partial in #1(I know this only because the #4 pipe stays cold for a while after starting and running the bike; #1 pipe doesn't get as hot as pipes #2 & #3). In addition, the plugs I took out were all gunked up from the gas that was getting sprayed into the cylinder but not igniting. Since I have power from the battery all the way to the cylinders, this leads me to believe that the timing on the points is off. The point is apparently connecting/disconnecting because the coil is firing, but I'm thinking it's not doing it correctly because it's not igniting. Does this sound legit? And if so, is this a job I can handle myself?

go back and check everything that you did to the bike after the last time that you were able to start it. I try to do my mods one at a time to prevent this stuff from happening. It is probably something that you did. Start at the fuses.

Perhaps there's insufficient voltage to the coil, for whatever reason.

With ignition switch ON and engine not running, coil should be receiving 13+ volts at its primary winding terminal.








Good Fortune!