TOPIC:

BATTERY WONT CHARGE NEW BATTERY,STATOR ,REGULATOR AND SOLENOID STILL NO LUCK ANY ADVICE GREATLY TAKEN

What Bike ?
Wiring problem ?

see fault finding at www.electrosport.com/electrosport_fault_finding.html

1980 kz 650 no known wiring problems problem did start after powering coils off of battery with relay but i did take all that back out

TINMAN475 wrote:

1980 kz 650 no known wiring problems problem did start after powering coils off of battery with relay but i did take all that back out

So, If I understand you correctly?
1)...Everything was fine,"no known wiring problems", BEFORE you did the coil power upgrade?
2)...Than you had charging problems?
3)...Than you put everything back the way it was and STILL had charging problems?

If thats the case, suggest you go back and look at all the wires that you cut and/or spliced and make sure they are all back to how they were before you did (and than un-did) the coil power upgrade.
Thats what I would do.

Let us know what you find, ok?

good luck !

Post edited by: ~DW~, at: 2005/10/29 14:10

You could start by measuring the voltage from the Stator and then measure the voltage from the Regulator and then track it up to the battery.

Just because you have new equipment (Stator, Regulator and Battery) does not mean that it was working when you installed it.

The Term - Infant Mortality applies particularly well to electrical parts.

My bet is a bad battery.
I bought one for a tractor that was likely siting on a shelf for a year or more and when I got arround to installing it, I found that it would not hold a charge.

Spock

Tinman, how was the New Battery first charged? I know simple question but It can be the cause of lots of problems. only MC batteries that need not be charged at 1/10th the AmpHour rating are the new AGM Batteries used in Harleys. Most Batteries therefore need to be charged at 1/10th the AmpHour rating for 24 hours and then let stand for at least 2 hours before use. Like stated before check from the Stator wires (lead to lead for Volts AC) then the Regulator/Rectifier (Diode Check) then output of the Regulator (12.5-14Vdc generic spec) at 3000 RPM. if that doesn't fix it get a hydrometer to check the specific gravity of the cells in the battery. should let you know if you have a bad cell or such.