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- KZ250LTD
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- KZ250LTD
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- loudhvx
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I'm off to work, but will check it closer a little later.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
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- Breaker19
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KZ250LTD wrote: I'm removing most of the wiring on my little F11 and fixing up what remains. All the wiring related to lights/horn/etc will be removed but I need some advice from the electrical geniuses on here about whether I can remove the ign switch altogether. There is a 6-point connection before the ignition switch with wires running to the magneto, battery, regulator and such. I was wondering if there would be any way to splice the wires together instead of them running to the ignition switch so that they are constantly on. If I can then I would just add a toggle switch to shut off the battery wire so that instead of a key all I have to do is flip the toggle switch and kick it over. Any help is appreciated, I'm an electrical idiot so I don't know if this is possible or what wires to splice and what wires to keep separate.
I've attached the wiring diagram as well
(If you drag the picture up to a new tab you can view a larger version of it)
Thanks!
Tim
Sure you can, question is, why would you? But the answer to your question is located in that little chart on the lower right. If you're dumping the lights, ignore the "night" column. In the "day" column, therefore, you see LB, Bl/W and Pink get connected by the ignition switch, and also the white and brown wires. White is listed as "batt" so that appears to be your power source from the battery. If you're also dumping the horn, you can also ignore the brown. So, as I read this, if you take the LB (light blue?), Bl/W (blue with a white) and pink wires, put them together and attach to one side of a switch; but also, you will likewise need to attach the Bk/W (black with a white) because that's listed as ignition. So, those 4 wires. Then put the white battery to the other side of the switch, what you're looking for should work. I'm viewing your drawing on a netbook so the drawing isn't terribly large to my eyes, but I think I can see the wire color codes clear enough. If not, someone please chime in. The Bk/Y (black with a yellow) is ground, apparently only used in the off position because there is no relationship with this wire in either "on" position. In other words, the ignition switch simply switches the positive (12V) side of the circuit. Some circuits on bikes (horns, etc.) switch the ground side. But if you look at the drawing itself, an easy way to see the B+ switching of 12VDC is look at the ignition terminal on the switch -- the wire coming out of the switch goes to the coil and then the coil shows a ground... and so does the horn circuit (red wire). So there should be no confusion there. Again, look at that chart, connect all the wires that show "day" on the chart including the "ig" (ignition wire), put those to power and I'd bet it'll work first try.
2003 Suzuki DR650 Dual-Sport
1982 KZ1100A2 - GONE! Traded-in for a '12 Concours 14
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- loudhvx
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It's about as close to a single-wire bike as you can get.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
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- KZ250LTD
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- loudhvx
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I would just leave them in the connector block. They power the lights etc., and someday you may want them. There will be considerable AC power on those wires, so you just don't want them to get shorted.KZ250LTD wrote: Great! Thanks for the help. As for why I'm eliminating the lights and ign switch, the bike is going to be a single purpose dirtbike so no need for any of the extra bits.
Lou, as for the grey and yellow wire coming off the magneto, do I need to connect them to anything or just leave them hanging in the connector block?
Again, thanks a lot!
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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