2 wire stator vs 3 wire

I have found that my 2 wire stator is defective. I followed the service manual instructions to test it. It is only putting out 26-29 volts AC instead of the 50 volts AC it should. Is there anywhere to buy one of these, other than used ones on eBay. Or is the 3 wire one interchangeable if you get the wire loom that hooks it up, or would it not work with my regulator? Is there any difference in output or anything between the 2 & 3 wires?

The 3-wire (3-phase) is probably a little more powerful than the 2-wire (1-phase) stator. In order to use the 3-phase stator, you will need the 3-phase regulator/rectifier, and will have to run one more yellow wire from the stator to the reg/rec.

However, I have never seen confirmation that the 1-phase and 3-phase stators are interchangeable physically on the KZ 550's. If they are, then it should work electrically.

If you accurately measure the inside diameter, outside diameter, thickness, mounting hole spacing, and any other relevant dimension, I can compare them with the 3-phase stators I have around.

The stator puts out 26-29 VAC at idle, it will only put out or better 50 VAC when revving past full advance (3500+ rpm ish).

Just sayin in case you didnt know!

Peace.

If it's the same as my Kz650-C3, I just took one off that I don't need anymore. Yours for shipping costs. PM me if you want it.

Edit: I haven't tested it, but I'm fairly certain it's ok.

Is it a 2 wire? Are there any numbers on it to try and match up?

Looks like it might not work - kawi part # 21003-1005 on my '79 Kz650-C3.

This is supposedly the applicable model list:
KZ650-B1 (1977)
KZ650-B2 (1978)
KZ650-B2A (1978)
KZ650-B3 (1979)
KZ650-C1 (Custom) (1977)
KZ650-C2 (Custom) (1978)
KZ650-C3 (Custom) (1979)
KZ650-D1 (SR) (1978)
KZ650-D1A (SR) (1978)
KZ650-D2 (SR) (1979)
KZ650-E1 (LTD) (1980)
KZ650-F1 (1980)

650 and 550 are definitely not interchangeable.

And just FYI, the 1-phase stator should put out about 70V ac at 4000 RPM with no load. It is the 3-phase that is rated to put out about 50V ac at 4000 RPM with no load. The aftermarket manual has the voltages reversed.

You are doing the tests with the yellow leads disconnected, correct?

I have the Kaw manual. It doesn't say that you should bring it up to 4000 rpm to get to 50v. Should I be bringing it up to that first? The problems I've been having is after riding awhile if I shut the bike off it doesn't want to start back up right away. After nearly an hour long ride the battery voltage is not even at 12v yet. When I hit the starter the voltage drops to below 6v.

DoubleDub does it look like this?

Flyndrive wrote: I have the Kaw manual. It doesn't say that you should bring it up to 4000 rpm to get to 50v. Should I be bringing it up to that first? The problems I've been having is after riding awhile if I shut the bike off it doesn't want to start back up right away. After nearly an hour long ride the battery voltage is not even at 12v yet. When I hit the starter the voltage drops to below 6v.

If not already done, could check performance of the charging system in general by measuring voltage across the battery terminals at idle rpm where it should read 12+ ~ 13 volts, and read it again at 4000 rpm where it should measure 14+ volts.

Given adequate charging voltage, but with continuing battery issues, the problem is likely a battery problem or a wiring problem, and not a problem with the generator or the rectifier or the regulator.

Would remove the battery, add water if needed to proper levels, and charge the battery overnight (on the work bench). Then have the battery load-tested to determine its condition and capacity to hold a charge.

With a good battery, assure the post connections are clean and snug, and verify integrity of the ground connection where the negative battery cable attaches at rear of the engine.

As the ignition uses the engine for ground, it's best imo to use the engine, and not the frame or chassis, as the ground from the negative battery cable.

If improved chassis grounding is desired, may add another ground from the negative battery post to the chassis/frame.

Good Fortune!

Yes. Stator voltage test is with stator wires disconnected, and engine at 4000 RPM. 2-wire stator should be around 70 to 75 v AC. But that is unloaded. If it is much below that, then the stator or it's wires are bad. Passing this test does not meant the stator is good, but failing it means it is bad.

If it passes that test, then another test can be done to see if it is the regulator portion of the reg/rec that is dragging down the voltage.

So I put it all back together to see again what it is doing. With the voltmeter hooked to the battery it charges very slowly. I then disconnected the stator leads and checked the voltage. At idle it's 26-29 VAC at 4000 it's right at 70 VAC. So is that working correctly? I did find that the white/red wire that hooks directly to the Barry was frayed and corroded. I cut it off put on an eye connector and put it on the battery bolt. Maybe I was losing some voltage through that connection.

How long should it take to get the battery voltage to the 13-14v while the bike is running at high rpms. Also as soon as I let off the throttle the battery voltage starts dropping pretty quick. Are the running lights and the headlight sucking that much juice that it can't charge it at idle?