Help with gpz FI

Been having trouble with my 82 gpz1100 FI system, took the throtle position sensor off, cleaned and then replaced (no help). I then unpluged the connector from the sensor and it runs like a spotted ass ape with great throttle response and no hesitation returning to idle. What significance does the wiring connector play and is it crucial to have on and what might the problem be when the connector is plugged back in. I have tried every adjustment with the tps connector on and nothing seems to work. With the connector on it is very sluggish, backfires through airbox, and dies.

What did you clean the TPS with? I use only De-Oxit on mine. It can be bought at Radio Shack Stores and other electronic supply places.

Kawasaki Fuel Injection Sensor Specs

Here's from my 1982 GPz1100 B2 factory shop manual:

Air temperature sensor spec(probably the one on the air filter housing, or next to it).

Meter at ohms X 1K ohms ( I use ohms X 2K as it works on my meter)
Disconnect the wiring from the harness, one meter probe to one of the connector pins, the other on the last pin.

It Should read 2.0K ohms to 3.0 K ohms at 68 F, if your meter won't read this, try the 20K ohm setting.

A footnote says this reading is true when sensor temperature is 20C (68F), 4.7 K ohms to 7.6 K ohms when 0 C (32 F) and 1.4 K ohms to 2.2 K ohms when 30 C (86 F).

Engine temperature sensor spec:
Again, meter to 2K ohm settings, one meter lead to the push on terminal (remove the wire as it may give a false reading) and the other to a chassis ground(any Black with Yellow stripe wire is part of the ground circuit).

The readings will be the same as the air temperature sensor.

The TPS has an electrical connector, only the first three(3) contacts are used, counting from left to right as you face it.

From my factory shop manual I'm making it easier to get the readings, by using shortcuts).


1. Ignition switch off.

2. Remove the small SS clip holding the cable to the TPS.

3. Using a multimeter set on ohms, range of 2K.

4. Measure between the first electrical contact on the left and the third to the right.

5. It should read between 3.3K ohms to 6.8K ohms.

The next test will cover the range between idle and full throttle:

1. Set the meter's probes on the left contact and the one next to it, as this is the idle position check.

2. Readings should be between 2.1K ohms to 4.2 K ohms

Full throttle check:

1. Same electrical contacts used.

2. With the throttle wide open, readings should be between 0.35 K ohms to 0.71 K ohms, see if the resistance changes smoothly, with no fluctuations or wide variations as the throttle is closed down to the idle position.

3. If there are variations, try cleaning the TPS with the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner/preservative. Open and close it with the throttle while spraying the cleaner up inside.

4. www.deoxit.com is the website for the electrical contact cleaner/preservative. It can be purchased at Radio Shack Stores and other electronic supply places.

Re: 1982 GPz1100 Fuel Injection Modifications
(From Cavanaugh Racing)
They run fine without the air box if you use the adjustable regulator. For a full on race setup, nothing beats the stock rubber velocity stacks that connect the air box to the throttle bodies.

Stock throttle bodies with the rubber stacks flow 125 CFM. Kawasaki knew what they were doing when they designed that system.

If you're going to keep the bike stock, leave then air box on. If you modify it for performance later on, you can go with individual air filters if you so choose.

If it were mine, I'd find some 83-85 GPz11 cams for it and drop them in. No need to switch to Shim on Bottom. They are the single item that will bolt in and provide immediate performance gains with nothing more than a valve adjustment. They're still out there and available for reasonable price. You'll want the adjustable regulator if you go that route.

If you go the adjustable regulator route, use the TPS adjustment to clean up the bottom end and make it idle smooth. Drill out the DFI cover plugs [carefully]. Remove the plastic cap. You'll see 2 phillips head screws with yellow paint on them. Warm up the bike. Set the idle to 1100 RPM. Adjust the TPS to where you have the highest, smooth idle & lock it down. Then reset the idle to 1100 with the main idle adjuster screw on the TB. That procedure applies to a bone stock bike as well. It's the best way to dial in the bottom end of the fuel curve. The little electric gizmo you see in the service manual for adjusting the TPS is good for taking up space in a drawer .

1982 Kawasaki GPZ1100 B2 ECU Pin out


I have a 82 GPZ1100 B2 also . I got out my well used service manual and copied the wire pin-out if you are going to use the EFI system.


The connector is numbered left to right with pin #1 on the lower row of pins
with #12 above #1 .

I'll give you the pin-out and wire colors that are viewed from the wire side.

#1 Black/Yellow Ground
#2 Blank
#3 Blank
#4 White/Red Battery +
#5 Blue/Red Sensor Ground
#6 Blue Air Temperature Sensor +
#7 Blue/Yellow Control Unit +
#8 Green Engine Speed
#9 Blank
#10 Gray Engine Temperature +
#11 Blue/White Throttle Opening Angle
#12 Yellow Injector Drive Signal
#13 Blank
#14 Blank
#15 Blank
#16 Black/Green Control Unit Ground
#17 Blue/Orange Throttle Sensor +
#18 Black Engine Speed
#19 Red/Black Starter Signal
#20 Blank
#21 Green/White Fuel Pump Relay Drive Signal



Kawasaki GPZ1100 TPS Replacement

Being as it doesn't have an O2 sensor for fuel correction and the computer doesn't allow for enrichment your assumption would be correct. The Kawasaki Turbo is your friend here, for the variable resistor wired inline to the temp sensor circuit. Ask the guy whose had four of them. Do a Google using the turbo instead of the GPz. I think Holeshot Performance made one.

MPS Racing made a variable resister for the GPz1100 DFI. They don't show it on their website, e mail or call and ask for it. They'll still put one together.
www.mpsracing.com/

sparkybr74mr wrote: Been having trouble with my 82 gpz1100 FI system, took the throtle position sensor off, cleaned and then replaced (no help). I then unpluged the connector from the sensor and it runs like a spotted ass ape with great throttle response and no hesitation returning to idle. What significance does the wiring connector play and is it crucial to have on and what might the problem be when the connector is plugged back in. I have tried every adjustment with the tps connector on and nothing seems to work. With the connector on it is very sluggish, backfires through airbox, and dies.

I'd say the problem is with the TPS switch by your description. What happens if you try to hold a steady 1500, then 2000, then 2500 RPM with the throttle?

Try grounding the wire that leads to the engine temp sensor between intake ports 2&3 with the TPS connector connected. Poke a cotter pin in the wire connector and touch it to a good ground. Sounds like it's going lean on you. As I recall, grounding the engine temp sensor wire will tell the ECU to go full rich.