Bike won't crank. Help me out boys

Moving all the wires and stough could have caused the issue but fallow the advice and you will be back on that nice ride !!!

KZ7hundy wrote: I'm trying to take it in. So just to sum up, you don't think the starting problem is coming from anything I did with the compression test or what not? It just seems too coincidental to have the bike not running after that? Thanks again for all the help

As noted by ready2ryde1985, during compression testing, the plug wires may have been slightly relocated where they touch the engine head, resulting in more voltage leaking through the old wires.
Or possibly a connection between boot/cap and plug was impaired during removal and then replacement onto the plug.

Are the plug wires at hand removable from the coil or permanently built into the coil?

Many models come from the factory with the plug wires permanently built into the coils. Often the plug wires become unserviceable before the coil itself becomes unserviceable. In such case, it's usually better to replace all the coils and plug wires with brand new items.

There's a plug wire "splicer" available, whereby a new plug wire may be attached close to the coil.
The splicer may work okay, but imo it seems better to apply that money toward new coils.

The coils themselves wear out from old age, sometimes by cracking (which admits moisture) and with internal shorts.

Many folks have resolved their ignition problems by replacing the coils and plug wires and electronic ignition (converted from points or replacing an old worn out factory electronic ignition).

Good Fortune!

Would remember to first assure adequate voltage to the coils.

Because even all new ignition components can't compensate for insufficient voltage being received at the coils.

Good Fortune!

All right great. So I'll test the ignition coils for good voltage and be back here to update. Thanks once more

Testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils For Input Voltage

When voltage testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils, the following needs to be done:

1. Remove the fuel/gas tank to access the coils.

2. Fully charge the battery.

3. Using a multimeter, set it up for VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

4. Turn on the ignition switch and the run/stop switch to “Run”.

5. Put the multimeter’s RED probe on where the red or red/yellow wire goes on the ignition coil.

6. Put the multimeter’s BLACK probe on either the battery Negative(-) post/terminal or a good frame ground.

7. You should be able to see battery voltage at the ignition coil connection, but this depends on the current draw of other items in the same circuit.

8. If the tested voltage is down to 8-9 volts, you probably need to clean the many and various electrical connectors.


Primary(small wires) side of the coils will read between 1.8 to 3.0 ohms.Check this with the wiring from the harness dis-connected

Secondary(sparkplug wire ports)side of the coil will read between 10.4K to 15.6K ohms. These ports are wired together, so it makes no difference which is used, as long as the correct coil to sparkplug configuration is followed.

The sparkplug caps should read 5K OHMS(5000), any higher, or a reading of infinity means new caps should be ordered.

To stress the ignition coils, take a hair dryer, heat the coils and see if the ohm readings change from cold to hot . If they do, it’s time to buy new coils.

When using the voltmeter, connect the red test wire probe (positive) to the dual connector, and connect the black test wire probe to either the engine head or to the negative battery terminal post.

And remember that a poor connection where the negative battery cable attaches to rear of the engine sometimes causes trouble. The connection might be corroded.

Good Fortune!

Old boy fired up after I re-tightened the plugs and tried to make sure the wires were snug. Thanks for the help guys