Bike won't crank. Help me out boys

Rode my bike around to warm it up to perform a compression test. I did the compression test and used the start/stop switch to crank the engine even though my manual says to use the starter motor (I didn't know how to do this and I had seen it done with the switch before). Compression came out fine and I cleaned my spark plugs in acetone while they were out. Put them back in and my bike wouldn't start. It will turnover but not start (it did start up twice after so many attempts for literally a split second). As I kept trying to start it, I noticed the crank becoming weaker, checked my battery and it was .08 volts below the required. Gave it a quick charge hoping somehow that was the cause and tried to crank it up again. Still got a weak crank and no start. Checked my battery again after that one attempted crank and the battery was even less charged than before (about .18 less than the required 12 volts). I need some help on this one. Does it sound like an electrical issue? Was it my fault of using the start/stop switch to run the compression test?

did you check the spark plug gap?

yeah i did. it looked almost spot on

Would remove battery, add water if needed, charge overnight, and have it load-tested.

For testing purposes and/or engine start-up , it's okay to jump the bike battery from an automobile battery PROVIDED the automobile engine is NOT running, and the automobile's ignition keys are in your pocket.

With plugs removed and grounded against the engine head, spin over the bike's engine and visually inspect the spark. Supposed to be a fat blue spark, and not a wimpy orange spark.

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You're the man patton. I had already ran the test and saw that wimpy orange spark and thought that was what I was looking for so hopefully it's my plugs. I'll pick up some new ones. Real quick though, what does load tested mean? Thanks a lot

And I meant to ask, since my bike ran fine before I cleaned them in acetone. Is it reasonable to assume that weakened them?

A load test on a bike battery will determine how much cranking power it's got. Most auto parts stores can do it along with the bike shops.

KZ7hundy wrote: And I meant to ask, since my bike ran fine before I cleaned them in acetone. Is it reasonable to assume that weakened them?

Am doubtful that acetone harmed the spark plugs.

Reason for the weak spark would imo be more likely due to inadequate voltage being received at the ignition coils' primary terminals. Could result from a weak battery or loss of voltage (eg., corroded connector) somewhere between the battery and the ignition coil.

If not already done, would also verify integrity of the ground connection where the negative battery cable attaches to rear of engine.

How old are the plug wires?

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Patton wrote: ...Reason for the weak spark would imo be more likely due to inadequate voltage being received at the ignition coils' primary terminals. Could result from a weak battery or loss of voltage (eg., corroded connector) somewhere between the battery and the ignition coil....

Would compare voltage measured across battery terminals to voltage actually being received at the ignition coils.



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I couldn't tell you how old they are. They look pretty aged though. I have a multimeter I'm going to use to check some of this stuff then if that will do the trick. I guess I don't need to get new plugs as of now huh?

A common problem in the secondary loop is voltage leaking through old hard cracked deteriorated spark plug wires.

Sometimes the resistor built into the plug cap/boot has also become defective.

Or the connection between the cap and plug isn't sound. With sufficient wire length available, may snip off a short section at the wire's end to provide a better grip for the cap onto the plug.

But would first assure adequate voltage is reaching the coil primary, and visually observe the spark quality. A fat blue spark on the existing plugs would suggest that the plugs are okay. However, that doesn't guarantee the same spark quality after the plugs are installed and firing under compression.

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I'm trying to take it in. So just to sum up, you don't think the starting problem is coming from anything I did with the compression test or what not? It just seems too coincidental to have the bike not running after that? Thanks again for all the help