I want to turn off the headlight

the occasional time at night when a headlight can be an annoyance...[/quote]

:laugh: You need to elaborate on this shit... :laugh:[/quote]

My bet's on bluej58 planning for that very infrequent experience when you might need to make a quick exit of the main road and go into stealth mode while still running.

Bill[/quote]

I was thinking more like a Drive In Movie...But that is a option too...LOL :woohoo:[/quote]

Old habits die hard

JD

he going to see your girlfriend when your at work :evil: :evil: :woohoo:

You got me all wrong P21, I'm a happily married guy.
I just remember the days when I had a choice
JD

You might look into the wiring harness under the tank, and you might find two wires there that are connected with a jumper. If there is, and you remove that jumper you can plug in the two wires from the early model switch.

That's the way it is on a 79 KZ750 twin anyway

Worth taking a look.

My only concern besides that of being nailed by a cager, is that if you are involved in an accident and the headlight is found to be disabled the argument "I didn't see him", has some legal credence. You never want to be in a law suit and since a lot of motorcycle/car accidents are big dollar items, you know the insurance companies will do everything they can to dispute your cliam ( I know from experience). After being seriously f'ed/u in a car vs bike accident I go the other way, a 90 watt PIAA headlight with a Kissan headlight modulator. Can't tell you the number of cagers who have commented on that, but at least they see me at the intersections. I'll probably wire a tailight modulator and hopefully something for a ts/ tailight /running light function. Squealing wheels from my 6 are no fun either.
ss^,Ken

OK ,
it looks like I have to follow the brown wire from the engine kill switch to where it splits into 2 brown wire's.
Then I need to interrupt the brown wire that goes to another split that turns into a blue and white wire and a brown and white wire, which eventually head to the lights.

I think :woohoo:
This is based on cross referencing the wiring diagram's for an A-1 and A2A , all the colors seem there.

It will be a couple of months before I find out, I'll let you know.
JD

Be careful with that brown wire. If you cut it at the wrong place, you can burn up the entire electrical system... coils, lights, regulator, rectifier. Make sure you are only cutting the brown wire at the branch that feeds the BRN/WHT and BLU/WHT wires. It's a very small branch on the diagram and appears to be drawn in the handlebar switch unit. If you cut the brown wire feeding the switch unit, you may lose ignition as well, so it has to be that little branch between the kill switch and light wires.

You are safer interrupting the BRN/WHT and BLU/WHT wires with a double-pole, double-throw switch (DPDT). But it will work as you described, at least according to the diagram I have for 78 KZ1000 A2 and A2A.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationTry this switch, its a simple plug and play.

As it turns out all I had to do was swap the 78 switch control and wire harness that runs through the bars with a 77 control and wire harness that has the off/on switch , the wires were already spliced and is a perfect color match, just plugged it in

Not only the head light goes off but so does the running lights and the gauges too.