Lighting Grimlins

1980 KZ 550 A1 running well, but I'm having some electric grimlins with my lights.

First I noticed that my turn signal won't flash when engine is above idle. When I slow down and come to a stop the lights blink normally. The flasher unit is fairly new.

Next, my head light sometimes just goes out for a second then comes back on (found this out riding down the interstate in traffic at night). If I switch to the high beams and don't have any problem. It seems to be just with my low beam. Would it just be my actual head light bulb? Or I'm wondering if my voltage regulator is going out creating both problems?

I'd do this first before buying new parts:


Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.
Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting).
I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........



Why WD-40 Should Not Be Used On Motorcycle Electrical Items.

For many years, I was proponent of the use of WD-40 on fuse clips, fuses, switches and connectors. After hearing of other peoples experience with intermittent and sporadic activity, I shrugged it off as maybe they did something wrong in the application of the product.


It wasn’t until the time I rode my 1982 GPz1100 B2 model to downtown San Diego that I encountered the problems others had gone through.

After concluding my business downtown, I walked to where my bike was parked, turned the key to unlock the forks, and prepared to start the engine. The key was in the "On" position, yet I had no lights in the dash panel, the fuel pump was not running(I have FI), and the horn and tail light were not working.


Puzzled as to why nothing electrical was happening, I remember my earlier conversations about how WD-40 will over time become a non-conductor(more like an insulator). I had some pieces of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in my tool kit and with them was able to scratch away the coating from the WD-40 on the fuses and clips.

After removing the insulating film, the bike started and ran like it should. Since that time, I’ve told people about the problem with WD-40. If you must use a contact cleaner, I recommend getting some "De-oxit" from Radio Shack Stores or any good electronic supply store.


Check the left and right handlebar switch pods, as some of the older Kawasaki's are suffering crumbled solder connections.

And if soldering is needed on the swich pods, here's soldering information:

Hand Soldering

Rosin flux(the paste type)works the best for me when soldering. Also get an acid brush and some 91% rubbing alcohol to clean the soldered joint(s). Use it to flush away any rosin residue as it's a non conductor.

A couple(2)of toothpicks to apply the rosin flux, a damp sponge to wipe the soldering irons tip occasionally, and rosin core solder is about all you'll need for this repair.

If the soldering iron is new, it probably needs "Tinning", to do so. follow these steps:

1.Have on hand either a damp, clean sponge or rag.

2.Plug in the soldering iron and let it get hot(maybe 2-3 minutes).

3.Unroll a few inches of the solder and then using a paper towel damp with rubbing alcohol, wipe away the fingerprint oils you left when handling the solder.

4.Apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the now hot soldering iron.

5.Using the damp sponge or rag, wipe away the excess solder, leaving a thin amount.

6.The iron is now "Tinned" and ready for use.

7.Periodically wipe the soldering iron tip & apply solder to keep the working surface in good shape, keeping in mind to not have too much solder on the tip.



Soldering Information

When hand soldering wires or connections, several tools need to be in place:

1. A wire stripper that will not damage the conductor of the wire when insulation is removed.

2. Rosin core solder of 0.032" diameter and larger for soldering. (Never use Acid core solder for electrical connections as they will corrode and fail). Preferred is solder of 60/40 lead to tin ratio, SN60 or SN63 type.

3. Rosin flux to aid in cleaning the connections for a good joint.
Liquid flux has it’s advantage, but I prefer the paste Rosin flux.

4. 91% rubbing Alcohol to remove excess dried flux after soldering. 70% Alcohol may not have the ability to remove the flux like 91% Alcohol does.

5. A ½" wide small paint brush or acid brush with the bristles cut down to make a scrub brush.

6. Needle nose pliers.

7. Straight and curved hemostats to aid in handling small wires, and can also be used as heatsinks to prevent wire insulation damage.

8. A selection of different diameter heat shrink tubing to protect and insulate the soldered connections(the best are the type with an internal adhesive that melts when the tubing is shrunk, sealing the ends from moisture).

9. A wire holder to be able to position the wire(s) for correct soldering.

10. Solder removing braid (Soder Wick): www.chemtronics.com/products/product.asp?r=1&m=2&id=91

11. Solder removing procedures:
www.aaroncake.net/electronics/desolder.htm

12. Variable temperature soldering station:
www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Pa...&utm_source=googleps

Color Codes On Most Kawasaki’s (written for 1980’s bikes)

HEADLIGHT
RED with BLACK stripe, High Beam.
RED with YELLOW stripe, Low Beam.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

BRAKE/TAIL LIGHT Can be an # 1157 dual filament bulb
RED, Running or Tail Light.
BLUE,(sometimes with a Red stripe) Brake Light Circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

LEFT FRONT TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1157 dual filament bulb
GREEN, Left front turn signal circuit.
BLUE, Left front running light circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL Can be an # 1157 dual filament bulb
GREY, Right front turn signal circuit.
BLUE, Right front running light circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1156 single filament bulb
GREEN, Left rear turn signal circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1156 single filament bulb
GREY, Right rear turn signal circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.