left hand controls

Hey everyone, I just opened up my left hand controls to look at the horn button because my horn wasn't working and I broke off the orange wire from the turn signal switch. It looks like they were sautered into the little brass indents in the switch at the factory, but I'm not sure how I would go about reattaching this. Any ideas?


Thanks
1978 KZ650 D1

60/40 Rosin Core Solder and a Decent Soldering Gun/ Iron. Get it nice and clean, cut back the wire 1/2", Tin both with Solder, then heat them both together in place.

Motor Head wrote: 60/40 Rosin Core Solder and a Decent Soldering Gun/ Iron. Get it nice and clean, cut back the wire 1/2", Tin both with Solder, then heat them both together in place.

He makes it sound so easy doesn't he? LOL! Seriously though, I just redid all the connections on my right hand switch not too long ago. It wasn't too bad if you've done a little soldering before, you should be ok.

Rosin flux(the paste type)works the best for me when soldering. Also get an acid brush and some 91% rubbing alcohol to clean the soldered joint(s). Use it to flush away any rosin residue as it's a non conductor.

A couple(2)of toothpicks to apply the rosin flux, a damp sponge to wipe the soldering irons tip occasionally, and rosin core solder is about all you'll need for this repair.

If the soldering iron is new, it probably needs "Tinning", to do so. follow these steps:

1.Have on hand either a damp, clean sponge or rag.

2.Plug in the soldering iron and let it get hot(maybe 2-3 minutes).

3.Unroll a few inches of the solder and then using a paper towel damp with rubbing alcohol, wipe away the fingerprint oils you left when handling the solder.

4.Apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the now hot soldering iron.

5.Using the damp sponge or rag, wipe away the excess solder, leaving a thin amount.

6.The iron is now "Tinned" and ready for use.

7.Periodically wipe the soldering iron tip & apply solder to keep the working surface in good shape, keeping in mind to not have too much solder on the tip.

MFolks you always give a good write up i like your style Thanks

MFolks wrote: Rosin flux(the paste type)works the best for me when soldering. Also get an acid brush and some 91% rubbing alcohol to clean the soldered joint(s). Use it to flush away any rosin residue as it's a non conductor.

A couple(2)of toothpicks to apply the rosin flux, a damp sponge to wipe the soldering irons tip occasionally, and rosin core solder is about all you'll need for this repair.

If the soldering iron is new, it probably needs "Tinning", to do so. follow these steps:

1.Have on hand either a damp, clean sponge or rag.

2.Plug in the soldering iron and let it get hot(maybe 2-3 minutes).

3.Unroll a few inches of the solder and then using a paper towel damp with rubbing alcohol, wipe away the fingerprint oils you left when handling the solder.

4.Apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the now hot soldering iron.

5.Using the damp sponge or rag, wipe away the excess solder, leaving a thin amount.

6.The iron is now "Tinned" and ready for use.

7.Periodically wipe the soldering iron tip & apply solder to keep the working surface in good shape, keeping in mind to not have too much solder on the tip.

Yep, I used to build missile test equipment for two programs(BG-109 Tomahawk & AGM-129 Advanced Cruse Missile) when I worked for General Dynamics/Convair Division in San Diego Ca from 1983-1993. Mil-Spec soldering was the expected standard, and the soldering school ran a week there.

I got real good at cable fabrication and constructing & wiring test equipment. Cables under 30 feet were laid up by hand, longer ones were done at the cable shop with a celophane wrap and then brought to our shop for insulation.

We used heatshrinkable neoprene resembling a fire hose except it was black in color, the procedure was to stretch out the tubing, blow air through it for inflation as it was flat on the reels,tie some string to a rag or paper towels & then blow it through the tubing.

Once the string and rag/paper towel went through the hose, a small rope was tied to the string and secured to the cable. The lubrication medium was talcum powder, blown through the tubing with several people helping feed the wire bundle into the tubing while the air kept the tubing inflated and more people pulled on the other end.

After the cable was in the tubing, it was taken to another section where the tubing was shrunk.
The machine resembled a horizontal ladder as the cable to be shrunk was arranged on the rungs and the heaters moved on a track back and forth above the cable.

If you were doing a 40 to 50 foot cable, you shrunk sections at a time until you came to break out areas and these were done on the bench using large heat guns.

The connectors may have solder cups or crimped on male or female pins, it all depended on how the engineers wanted the cable configured.

Heatshrink "boots" were used to protect the many and various electrical connectors after they were assembled,tested & passed inspection.