KZ750 Starter Issues

I'm still waiting on the locksmith to get me a key so I can open the seat. So I haven't performed thorough troubleshooting yet. But while I'm waiting, I thought I'd ask here.

The electric start is not working. I was checking voltages on the starter relay. While I was doing this, I noticed that the relay would engage (with a "click") as normal. But sometimes it would not disengage immediately when I released the start button. After a couple seconds, I would hear it disengage.

I also noticed that the indicator lights would completely shut off while the relay was engaged. Eventually, the relay would not disengage at all and I had no power on the indicator lights.

So I have a couple questions. One, is it normal for power to be cut to the indicator lights (and possibly elsewhere) while the electric start is engaged? If so, what is responsible for cutting that power? I'm looking at the wiring diagram, and the only thing I see that COULD do this is the relay.

Thanks!

I'd replace the starter solenoid as it's "hanging up" and should dis engage when the start switch is released. Before replacing it though, open up the right handlebar switch pod and inspect the wiring. On some of the older Kawsaki's, the solder joints are crumbling, so look carefully for loose wiring.

What's the condition of the battery and related cables? Clean and tight? All electrical connections to the starter solenoid in good condition? The larger wires/cables carry the current to the starter motor and if they are loose,the capabilty is reduced.Inspect the starter motor electrical connections too, as they can get loose due to vibration.


Here's a check out procedure:

Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight. If the cables feel “Crunchy” when flexed, they may have corrosion inside the insulation, requiring replacement.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. A website for starter motors is:

A. www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm

B. www.nationsautoelectric.com/Kawasaki.html

C. www.whitedogbikes.com/cat--Kawasaki-Star...-Starter-Motors.html

D. www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/starters.php

10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.