Do I need a new stator?

Trying to get my problem child 1988 KZ305 back on the road.

Latest problem is the battery is not charging. The battery is new and tested good. It produces a solid 12.5v and holds a charge. I'm following the steps outlined in my manual for troubleshooting.

I tested the voltage at the battery and there's no rise in voltage with a rise in RPMs telling me the battery isn't charging.

When I tested the Magneto Output voltage at the regulator I got some questionable results.

There are three leads coming from the generator to the regulator and the manual says to measure the V AC between all of them. If we call the terminals A,B,C there are three measurements to take: A-B, B-C, A-C. The manual says they should all be "about 70 V at 4,000 rpm".

I get about that when measuring A-C, but A-B and B-C come in around 55.

I thought maybe that was close enough and so decided my regulator must have died. Got a replacement (used) regulator and I'm still not getting any rise in voltage at the battery with a rise in RPMs.

So, I'm looking for input on what to look at next. I'm thinking I was wrong and 55 V AC at the regulator must not be close enough.

Do I need a new generator?

www.electrosport.com makes replacement stators & regulators. They have a good troubleshooting page.

Here's other stator suppliers:
www.customrewind.com
www.accel-motorcycle.com/
www.tpe-usa.com/ (Tim Parrott Enterprises)

Thanks for the parts sources. I guess first I want to be sure it really is the stator.

Does a reading of 55 between those leads mean my stator is likely a goner?

To me, it's low, probably why the battery won't charge like it should. On my 1982 GPz 1100, the stator will test at 50 volts A.C if it's in good shape.

I just realized something. I recently removed the front turn signals on the bike. At the time everything else checked out, all my electricals seemed to work, but now I'm wondering if there's any chance that would somehow interfere with the generator.

Also, just found the troubleshooting guide mentioned above. This will help a lot thanks!
www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

When you do take the old stator off, you'll probably notice one phase will be burned/blackened. Also check the plug going to the regulator/rectifier for burned pins and at the main fuse panel connector.

Possibly the ground circuit was not making good contact causing a surge.

Color Codes On Most Kawasaki’s (written for 1980’s bikes)

HEADLIGHT
RED with BLACK stripe, High Beam.
RED with YELLOW stripe, Low Beam.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

BRAKE/TAIL LIGHT Can be an # 1157 dual filament bulb
RED, Running or Tail Light.
BLUE,(sometimes with a Red stripe) Brake Light Circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

LEFT FRONT TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1157 dual filament bulb
GREEN, Left front turn signal circuit.
BLUE, Left front running light circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL Can be an # 1157 dual filament bulb
GREY, Right front turn signal circuit.
BLUE, Right front running light circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1156 single filament bulb
GREEN, Left rear turn signal circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1156 single filament bulb
GREY, Right rear turn signal circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

I'd open up the headlight housing,looking for signs of wires touching/grounding out.

Well here's the problem. The connector on the white/red wire that leads from the regulator to the
positive battery terminal is shot.



It was down inside that plastic 6 pin connector so I didn't spot it right away. I managed to get it to make contact with the proper pin on the regulator and voilia! I'm charging again.

I get about 12.5-12.8 V at the battery when not running and 13.6-13.8 V when running.

I need to make a run to the store and get some of that style connector, replace it and I should be good to go.

Next up for the problem child bike is probably a head gasket. (Unless something else breaks first)

Thanks for all the help everyone!

If possible, install the regulator/rectifier so the electrical connection is pointing down as if it's up(like in the picture) moisture/rainwater will get trapped, shorting out the pins.

Some riders use a dielectric grease on their bikes connectors, I don't as It can get hot & migrate acting more like an insulator.

MFolks wrote: If possible, install the regulator/rectifier so the electrical connection is pointing down

That's a great idea. I think there's plenty of cable slack to allow for that. Thanks for the tip!

Good to see that you are finding your problem. But if you are low on 1 of your phases on the Stator, then you may have a problem there still. Possible bad connection, or partially broken wire strand, on the yellow where it comes from the Stator. Check the resistance of each phase, all three pairs of the yellows. I don't have a book for your model but .7 OHM should be about right. You may want to check right at the Stator coil ends, where the yellow wires are soldered.
Charging Voltage at the Battery should be 14v- 14.5v @ 4K Rpm.