Welcome, Guest
Username: Password: Remember me
  • Page:
  • 1

TOPIC:

1980 Kz1000 Classic Bike Does not Run 11 Sep 2011 17:41 #475964

  • Z Parts
  • Z Parts's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 39
  • Thank you received: 0
I have a 1980 KZ1000 Classic. The bike won`t fire. it has been two years since it ran. Is there any common problems that are typical of the fuel injection not working. Thanks

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Last edit: by Z Parts. Reason: Fixed other problem

1980 Kz1000 Classic Starter button won`t work 11 Sep 2011 18:05 #475973

  • MFolks
  • MFolks's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 6650
  • Thank you received: 540
Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight. If the cables feel “Crunchy” when flexed, they may have corrosion inside the insulation, requiring replacement.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm


B. www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

If the bike turns over(cranks),when jumpering the two heavy duty terminals on the starter solenoid, then start tracing back from the solenoid's energizing coil to the start button on the right handle bar switch pod. Some Kawasaki's are suffering from the soldered connections crumbling from age/heat/vibration
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
The following user(s) said Thank You: Z Parts

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1980 Kz1000 Classic Starter button won`t work 19 Sep 2011 19:05 #477930

  • white.knight
  • white.knight's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Intel can be...fun
  • Posts: 6
  • Thank you received: 2
Assuming the bike turns over, start with the simple first. Check fuses. Check "filebase" for wiring diagrams for your model bike. Check for spark, both coils. No spark check for power at coils. If you have power connect test light to coil negative and 12v positve and crank, light should flash, no flash diagnose pickup or module problem. EFI, check for fuel pump run or power during crank. No pump, check to see if it has a fuel pump relay or a "tip over switch". Power to EFI, start by checking for power at the fuel injector plugs. No power check for EFI relay or power to EFI box. Also check EFI box connector for corrosion, water intrusion, or broken pins. EFI output, use a "noid" light or a LED test light across an injector plug and crank, light should flash. DO NOT use high amperage test lamp or it will blow injector output drver in EFI box! These preliminary checks should narrow it down to one area. Post your results and I'll see if I can help you further if this user name dosen't get BANNED along with gearheadmm. I have alot of EFI experience and installed gen 6 and 7 DFI and Motec systems on cars and turbo bikes. Don't give up on Kaws first EFI bike. And don't chop it up they are worth $ if running. With diagrams any GOOD auto tech should be able to get it running as these systems are realy quite simple.
Three days of...night
The following user(s) said Thank You: Z Parts

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1980 Kz1000 Classic Starter button won`t work 19 Sep 2011 19:34 #477934

  • MFolks
  • MFolks's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 6650
  • Thank you received: 540
1980 KZ 1000 G1 (Z1 Classic)
I took this from the www.kzrider website.

below is a description with autos and part numbers for this throttle switch. ONLY COST $80.

This little switch has *profound* affects on the usability of the bike. Only 1 side of the 2-pole switch was intermittently bad, and it basically made the bike UNUSABLE.

I found the switch today at O'Reilly Auto Parts store here in Silicon Valley -- they used the matching autos to look it up in the O'Reilly computer in the store (using 'Kawasaki' or the Kaw part number was *not* useful, it had to be a car with the year/model or a part number for the switch).

The local O'Reilly store today looked it up for the 1979 Datsun 280zx and they HAD ONE IN STOCK. Put it on the bike, I'm gone on a 45-minute ride around the Valley!
NARY A HICKUP. Bike is fiiiiiine.

So for anyone else with this one-year-only Kz1000 "Z1 Classic", here are a few ways to find this switch:

1) 1979 Datsun 280zx "Throttle Valve Switch"

2) 1980 Datsun 200sx, find it at
Remartautoparts.com, with Remart part # TH114

3) "BECK ARNLEY 158-0492 Fuel Injector Throttle Switch" (NOTE: the 158-0492 is a 'master' part number apparently that most Auto parts stores can use to find all the vendors of this switch)

4) 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo "Throttle Position Sensor",
the part is mfg. by 'Nile'

If I were you, I'd buy one to have on hand if your bike acts up like this rider's did.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
The following user(s) said Thank You: Z Parts

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1980 Kz1000 Classic Starter button won`t work 20 Sep 2011 15:49 #478060

  • white.knight
  • white.knight's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Intel can be...fun
  • Posts: 6
  • Thank you received: 2
A shorted TPS can draw down "v ref" so far that (possible no start) none of the sensors info sent back to the processor can be used. Disconecting sensor will make it run better. TP sensor is used to calculate enrichment (accel pump on carb) and which cell to read on the base map on an "alpha n" system (also used on "speed density" systems to lesser extent), with out that signal (open) processor is confused. All of the sensors on this bike probably originated on a car to keep costs down.
Three days of...night

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Last edit: by white.knight.

1980 Kz1000 Classic Starter button won`t work 20 Sep 2011 18:10 #478087

  • MFolks
  • MFolks's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 6650
  • Thank you received: 540
Some of these tests may not apply to your fist generation FI.

Kawasaki Fuel Injection Sensor Specs

Here's from my 1982 GPz1100 B2 factory shop manual:

Air temperature sensor spec(probably the one on the air filter housing, or next to it).

Meter at ohms X 1K ohms ( I use ohms X 2K as it works on my meter)
Disconnect the wiring from the harness, one meter probe to one of the connector pins, the other on the last pin.

Should read 2.0K ohms to 3.0 K ohms at 68 F, if your meter won't read this, try the 20K ohm setting.

A footnote says this reading is true when sensor temperature is 20C (68F), 4.7 K ohms to 7.6 K ohms when 0 C (32 F) and 1.4 K ohms to 2.2 K ohms when 30 C (86 F).

Engine temperature sensor spec:(on the intake side between #1 and #2 cylinder)
Again, meter to 2K ohm settings, one meter lead to the push on terminal (remove the wire as it may give a false reading) and the other to a chassis ground(any Black with Yellow stripe wire is part of the ground circuit).

The readings will be the same as the air temperature sensor.

The TPS has an electrical connector, only the first three(3) contacts are used, counting from left to right as you face it.

From my factory shop manual I'm making it easier to get the readings, by using shortcuts).


1. Ignition switch off.

2. Remove the small SS clip holding the cable to the TPS.

3. Using a multimeter set on ohms, range of 2K.

4. Measure between the first electrical contact on the left and the third to the right.

5. It should read between 3.3K ohms to 6.8K ohms.

The next test will cover the range between idle and full throttle:

1. Set the meter's probes on the left contact and the one next to it, as this is the idle position check.

2. Readings should be between 2.1K ohms to 4.2 K ohms

Full throttle check:

1. Same electrical contacts used.

2. With the throttle wide open, readings should be between 0.35 K ohms to 0.71 K ohms, see if the resistance changes smoothly, with no fluctuations or wide variations as the throttle is closed down to the idle position.

3. If there are variations, try cleaning the TPS with the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner/preservative. Open and close it with the throttle while spraying the cleaner up inside.

4. www.deoxit.com is the website for the electrical contact cleaner/preservative. It can be purchased at Radio Shack Stores and other electronic supply places.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
The following user(s) said Thank You: Z Parts

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1980 Kz1000 Classic Starter button won`t work 20 Sep 2011 19:06 #478092

  • white.knight
  • white.knight's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Intel can be...fun
  • Posts: 6
  • Thank you received: 2
All true, my tests are a quick way to guide you in some kind of direction in DIAGNOSIS. I can't find my manual so the best advice we could give him is how to get self test codes out of the processor if possible. After preliminary diagnosis.
Three days of...night
The following user(s) said Thank You: Z Parts

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Page:
  • 1
Powered by Kunena Forum