Installing toggle switches as an option

Hi guys I have had my 77' KZ 650 for over twenty five years recently done a few mods (removed rear guard, new single seat , low bars Shortened indicator bars) and it's still going strong.
about to rewire from the starter/headlight switches back to the harness due to some serious chafing creating short outs.
Before I commence I was thinking of changing the switch setup to a set of toggle switches as a modification.
Any members done this mod and is it a good idea? I like the idea of the bars being clear of the swag of wires going to each of the Left and right switch blocks. Iwas thinking of a line of switches on a chrome plate sited below the rev counter and speedo.
sounds ok but not sure if it is really practical. Would like to hear some thoughts of members that have had a go at such a modification and what they thought of it.
Cheers
Peter g

If you use toggle switches, try to get the Mil-Spec ones as they are usually sealed from moisture and resist vibration far better than ones from auto parts stores.

Here's some ideas:
www.gadgetjq.com/accessory_switches.htm
www.waytekwire.com
www.delcity.net

Another thought, would be to get the switches that will use ring lugs for the wire connections, rather than the 1/4" wide push on terminations found on some switches

You're going to need wire strippers,crimpers,heatshrink tubing,a heat gun to shrink the tubing,possibly the heatshrinkable crimpable butt connectors(splices) and the wire terminations of several sizes for the switches.

If you want to make it look neat, stay away from the sticky black tape and use the non adhesive wire bundle(Loom)tape when bundling wires together.

If needed, I have listings for most of these items......

Wire Termination Insulation & Sizes

Terminal Insulation Color Wire Sizes
RED

---

22-18 gauge wire
BLUE

---

16-14 gauge wire
YELLOW

---

12-10 gauge wire

The ring terminal holes comes in many sizes, from #4 up to 1/2" in most cases, it's a matter of finding the tightest fitting hole to fit the fastener for the termination.

American Wire Gauge(AWG) is backwards to what many people think; that is 22 gauge is many times smaller than 10 gauge even though the number is bigger.

mount them in the housing between the gauges in place of idiot lights

Might want to mount the switch plate on rubber isolation mounts or the switches will get buzzed to death in relatively short order.

peterg wrote: Hi guys I have had my 77' KZ 650.... I like the idea of the bars being clear of the swag of wires going to each of the Left and right switch blocks.

Then you should have left it stock because the stock '77 KZ650 has the wires running through the handlebars. No ugly "swag" of wires hanging all over the place like cobwebs. Since you decided to change the bars why not just drill a hole near each switch block and run the wires through like Kawasaki did 34 years ago? The toggle switch crap can work, but there's little you can do to make it look really clean unless you hide it all under the seat (like I did on my old BSA). Ed

Thanks for the advice I will follow up on the suggestions.

In answer to the comment that I should have left it stock, well the situation is that I have had the bike for over twenty years with the same bars and the wires were never through the bars but outside. I can only assume the original owner changed the bars prior to me buying the bike. So It's news to me but I will take the suggestions on board

Only one important electrical issue comes to mind....

USE A SEALED KEYED SWITCH to supply power to these switches!

Two fold reasoning...
1) In case you leave a switch on by mistake, wont drain your battery.
2) While out of eye site of your beloved, ppl like to play w/switches thus drain the battery...
3) If EI, you definitely don't want the ignition pickups/coils powered on in non operations for extended period of time...
4) Makes it harder for someone with a clue to how easy it is to hot wire a KZ to steal your beloved...

Also insure the amperage rating of the switches is adequate for the load.

Just my two worthless cents....

Some of the chopper guys mount a toggle switch right on the back of the headlight bucket. Even an On-Off-On switch to control high beams, and even a blue LED to indicate the Highs.

here is some good info on toggle switches that lou(loudhvx) educated me on this morning .

For the headlight, get a SPDT switch with "center-off" switch if you can find it, then you have the option of the light being off for starting. That type of switch is sometimes known as an "On-Off-On" switch, but it may not be available for a 15A.

Also, on the subject of toggle switches... don't use cheap ones, small ones, or cute ones. They will melt. Never use the cheap, plastic-bodied switches. They fail quickly under the stresses of a motorcycle. Get minimum 20 AMP switch for main, and 15A for lights. Get switches with metal toggles, and metal bodies or bakelight bodies, or maybe epoxy resin body if they are big enough. There are many plastic switches rated for 20 amps and they last about an hour before they start melting. The plastic ones will have a very shiny, plasticky finish. The bakelight or resin ones sometimes look dusty.

hth,
leon

Some Mil-Spec toggle switches:

MS24523-22 SPST Toggle Switch
www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=6422180

MS24523-23 SPDT Toggle Switch
www.bpbsurplus.com/lc/cart.php?target=pr...7468&category_id=325

MS24523-28 SPST Toggle Switch Momentary
www.bpbsurplus.com/lc/cart.php?target=pr...8139&category_id=325

MS24524-22 DPST Toggle Switch
www.prowireusa.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MS24524-22

MS24524-27 DPDT Toggle Switch Momentary
www.bpbsurplus.com/lc/cart.php?target=pr...8722&category_id=325

SPST = Single pole,Single throw
SPDT = Single pole,Double throw
DPST = Double pole,Single throw
DPDT = Double pole,Double throw