help please

baTTERY NEEDS REPLACE JUST WANTED TO PUT IT OFF TILL NEXT YEAR guess its off to the store thanks

If the bike has kick start too,there is a way to remove the battery by replacing it with a capacitor. Ask either "Otakar" or "Loudhvx" here on the forum about doing that.

developed new problems i put the bike on a charger and it runs fine i use the kickstart i unhook the charger and the bike stalls shouldnt a 1977-78 with a kick start run with out the battery being any good?

If the battery tests good(most motorcycle shops can check this for you, then you need to check the charging system on the bike.

The charging system on these old bikes consisits of a wire winding(stator) with a permanent magnet rotor attached to the crankshaft. As the rotor spins it produces about 50 volts 3 phase Alternating Current(A.C.) which is sent to the rectifier/regulator. This converts the A.C. to D.C., charging the battery and running the bikes electrical system.


Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s and GPz1100’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced.
Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were reported to be phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place. Check only with the engine off !!

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty. Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.

Alternator Stator Replacement On the Older 4’s
Source for replacement Stators

A. www.electrosport.com (They have a trouble shooting page)
B. www.customrewind.com
C. www.rmstator.com
D. www.ricksmotorsportselectrics.com
E. www.regulatorrectifier.com

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼" and 3/8" ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.




6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Some bikes may have Torx style fasteners, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.

9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen or Torx fasteners, securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexi-glass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One (1)WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One(1) smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One(1) BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three(3) YELLOW wires, maybe 14 gauge in size, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.

thanks alot ill go pick up all the parts tomorrow i dont wanna messaround with trouble shooting the part was just wondering if the bike should run with the kick start even with a dead battery mines a 1977 b modle kickstart and electric

A dead battery may affect the stator by possibly burning out a phase,burning some of the eectrical pins in the fuse block and regulator/rectifier.

ok but my question is if i start the bike and unhook the battery will the bike continue to run until i shut it off or if i dont have a battery in it can i start the bike usen the kickstart or is the battery a must have in the bike i know theres a problem with the battery for sure it only holds chaqrge for about 5 min or so im assuming that the regulator or rectifer is bad so i will replace it i think there bad cause after i boost the bike i unhook the booster cable as soon as i do it dies or after i charge the battery it runs till the battery dies so if everything aside from the battery is fine can i start the bike with the kickstart and have it run or do i need the battery in it

also i know my bike has original rectifer diodes and regulator does any one have a picture of what they look like so i can tell witch is witch i havent done any elecrical stuff on bikes b4 just the mechanics of em pistons rings carbs and things of that nature appericate the help guys thank u

The battery acts like a surge tank as it will absorb excess electrical energy. Without it in the circuit, the light bulbs will burn out and possible ruin the ignition system, especially if you have an electronic ignition. Point's might survive, but as soon as the engine rpms is raised above 3000 rpm or so, the bulbs might burn out.

No brake lights,instrument lights & turn signals.....

The early Kawasaki's had seperate regulators and rectifiers, most by now have had installed the combination units with the reg and rect in one package.


A nice picture of a failed rectifier or regulator:
www.redlinecycle.com/rectifiers.html

thanks in the picture there it shows a silver rectifer where i have diodes and beside the fuse box on the other side of my bike under the cover i have a silver box it must be the regulator im assuming right?if any one has that am i on the right track with what that is? my bike is all original only has 3300km on it its been in a storage barn with stuff piles on it until i got it i cleaned the motor out and redid all gaskets it had the airpods and carbs on it no airbox guy gave me the bike for a song so i figured ide restore it best i can im a huge fan of the old bikes just not overly smart with electrical