At a loss.. shorted tail light- no power

I was rewiring some of the tail lights on the trunk- and accidentally shorted one out as I was testing the brake light- at the moment of short, foot brake was on, key on.

Now, no neutral light, no brake lights, but head light, signals work, tail light work (secondary doesn't just the low side)
The fuse box has no blown fuses, the dual 30's in that little black box..both good

What am I overlooking? thanks

Pull the fuses out one at a time,inspectng for broken fuse wire inside the glass tube(if you have the older style fuses),If they look good, take either a self powered continuity light or a multimeter set on ohms at the lowest range, and check the fuses. If no luck, post back and I'll think of more tests.

I'll be a bad fuse, first time that happened! Looks good, but it's a doa10 amp one
thanks

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net/store/6!way-fuse-blocks/p_10822.a_1

10. A source for the glass tubed AGX fuses:
www.boatownerswarehouse.com/browse.cfm/2,4986.html


I believe a forum member "Otakar" has changed his bike's fuses to the "Blade Style" from the glass tubed style some time ago.

headlight/tail light are on same circuit,brake light is seperate

Scary find in the vetter..the cover for the fuses- two huge burn holes, and flash/heat damage directly over the ignition and the brake fuses...yeesh.
The one fuse in question, even with my readers on looks fine but the multi says its dead.
Perhaps winter project convert to new pin style and redo a mile or two or wire.

I have a large listing of supplies for re-wiring, from heat guns,heatshrink tubing,tools,to non sticky harness tape. Let me know what you need....

Will do, probably attack one section at a time. I'd forgotten copper 12v wire has literally tripled in the last year.
First thing is the maddening dimming headlight when brakes are touched.
Simply cleaning contacts has helped but still something somewhere isn't right.

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s and GPz1100’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced.
Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were reported to be phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place. Check only with the engine off !!

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty.Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator,the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.

www.electrosport.com has a good troubleshooting page on their website to help locate charging problems.