testing coil?750 twin, urgent, 1 day to work on it

i have a manual for my kz750 twin but it says that i need a special tool from kawasaki to test my coil. but ive read tons of people testing it with an ohm meter. i have a emgo coil from z1 but i seem not to have any spark. when i hooked it up i had great spark and now i dont so i want to test it. what do i set the multimeter too. where do i place the + and - terminals from the ohm meter. what should it read. the more details and simple terms the better for me. im very new to motorcycles and have been tryin to learn as much as i can so that i can ride my bike for the first time this year before it snows. thanks everyone!

nm guys. i found another manual for the kz750 thats hows how to do it!

Typing the words,"coil test" into the search box brought up this useful thread--- www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/47017...ulator-and-al#470186

There is no way to accurately bench test a coil other than replacing it and seeing if the problem goes away.

A "coil" is in fact a flyback transformer with a turns ratio (secondary to primary) of maybe 200:1. Over time, you start to get breakdown in the insulation between windings which reduces secondary voltage. You can also have catastrophic arc over basically making the coil not work at all. The "symptoms" often don't appear until the coil is hot.

The reason you can't actually test the coil properly is that even if you had a HI-POT tester to apply high voltages, you can't get at the internal points in the windings to connect the meter. Static tests on a coil will detect one which has suffered catastrophic failure but it can never tell you if the coil is actually good.

If you bought a new coil, I would be very surprised if it failed. I would replace the condenser if not already done and recheck the mounting of the connections by the points to make sure they are not grounded there (it happens, guess how I learned that).

There's a Kawasaki "electro-tester" to determine whether a coil is capable of producing at least a 7 mm spark.
Likely won't reveal an internal short due to heat and/or moisture under actual service conditions.
Same for the ohmmeter resistance measurement through the primary winding.

The coil may outlive its built-in spark plug wires that harden and crack to begin leaking high intensity voltage.

Would suggest replacing old coils, especially those with permanently built-in plug wires.

Meanwhile, may visually observe the spark at plug tips to assure they are fat blue sparks.

Another test is to spray water mist over the coils and plug wires while the engine is running in the dark, to help determine whether there's any high intensity current leakage.

Good Fortune!