Ignition switch problems

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13 Aug 2011 18:16 #468841 by kfs
Ignition switch problems was created by kfs
I have an 81 kz1000 k1 ltd the ignition switch went bad. A new one is no longer available. Unable to find a suitable replacement (six pin + extra red/gold wire). I decided to try to fix the old one. Amazingly I think I have succeeded. The switch now tests with an ohm meter correctly for the three conections it's supposed to make (white to white/black, orange to orange/green, brown to red/gold). I put the switch back in and all that comes on when I turn switch on is the headlight. I went back to fuse box no power any more to main 30Amp fuse? there had been previously. Anyone have any ideas on tracing power from battery to fusebox? According to the wiring diagram it's only a short distance. But I can't actually see the wiring.

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  • Motor Head
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14 Aug 2011 10:01 #468993 by Motor Head
Replied by Motor Head on topic Ignition switch problems
Power from the battery goes right to the 30 Amp Main fuse, so you must have a problem at the Red/ white wire, maybe where the Bullet connector plugs in. Otherwise the common problem is the clips that hold the fuse overheat, causing poor connection. This can be inside the bottom of the fuse panel. Time for another fuse panel, a lot of guy's have replaced it with a ATC type, blade fuses. That requires some rewiring instead of just a replacement.

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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14 Aug 2011 13:27 #469032 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic Ignition switch problems
Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.
9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net/store/6!way-fuse-blocks/p_10822.a_1

10. A source for the glass tubed AGX fuses:
www.boatownerswarehouse.com/browse.cfm/2,4986.html


If possible,open up the old fuse block/panel and make note of how it's wired. Kawasaki uses buss bars to reduce the wiring congestion in these panels.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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