HELP! Throttle/Starter/Headlamp Switch Assembly

Trying to install & route a new Throttle Switch Assembly. I am in the middle of replacing the old Throttle Switch Assembly. I have disconnected the throttle cables. I have removed the fuel tank and disconnected the correct wiring bundle at the main harness. My dilemma is that I am not sure how to go about pulling through the old wires from inside the handlebars and route in the new bundle. The wiring feeds into a hole on the bottom of the handle bar where the switch assembly is located, naturally. The switch assmbly wiring bundle exits front & center of the handlebars between the handle bar riser/clamps. From there the wires are turned back toward the main wiring harness for connection. Here is my sticking point:

-Do I keep the handlebars in place and simply pull out the old wiring bundle? Then attempt to try and shove/pull the new wiring bundle through to the exit hole in the center of the handle bars? This option seems likely to end in damage to the old assembly which is still functional OR damage to the new assembly.

-OR, Do I completely remove the handlebars to do this job? Any possible problems in doing this other than taking more parts off the handlebars?

My other primary concern is that once the wiring is halfway through, I lose contact and cannot pull through. I have probes. I also can attach some nylon braided string to the end of wire bundle to aid in pulling through. I learned early in life to be careful when messing with any tube assembly when shoving or pulling things through.

There is nothing wrong functionally with the old throttle/switch assembly. Why am I replacing? The previous owner had brake fluid leak from the master cylinder resulting in the paint/finish of the assembly being dissolved away. I bought a new NOS replacement unit from the local Kawi dealer two years ago. I am simply trying to get this bike looking like new. Heck it barely has 4,000 on the odo. I know, I know, I could repaint the old one. I really did not think of this until I had purchased the new unit. Please help with any practical advice on removal and reinstall of the above. All feedback welcome!

If it were me, to make it easier,I'd remove the handle bar assembly and work on a bench rather than fight the wiring on the bike.

Silicone spray will be a good lubricant to slip the wires through the handlebars, but ensure there are no sharp burrs to damage the wiring insulation. When I pulled wires, I used masking tape to taper the pulled end and then used 0.032" SS safety wire secured to the wires as a puling medium.

Nylon cord/tape should work for your needs,just take it slow and easy.

Thanks MFolks. The more I have thought about it the more I agree. I am going to the garage to take off the handlebars. I will then remove the old wiring assembly. I like the tapering suggestion. Will give it a try. Wish me luck!

When the wires are finished being pulled,get a multimeter set on ohms at the lowest setting, and check for shorts to the bars. This will save headaches later if there is a short.

Thanks for the added tip. I will have to get the ohm meter at a later date. I am pretty sure all is good. I was able to loosen the handlebars, turn them down and gain better access to the center hole. I pushed the handle bars down exposing the center hole in the bares. The wiring harness end up to gain some slack. I sprayed PTFE,Teflon spray into the handlebars. Before pulling out the old wiring assembly, I tied a nylon cord to the end I was going to pull through. I taped with blue masking tape to aid the slide out. Now, I have the cord already through after I pulled out the wiring bundle. I connected this to the new wiring bundle and taped over again. I then sprayed the new wiring harness rubber covering with the teflon spray. I then proceeded to pull very carefully back through the handlebars. I then tested for good connections before reassembling. All good to go! Thanks again for the tips.

Glad I could help! I love motorcycle electrical mysteries, and have many years building wire and cable harnesses for two missile programs when I worked for General Dynamics/Convair in San Diego.

Hey Folks, gotta ask about the ohm test on the bars there, how do you rig that up exactly? Negative on ground, positive on hotwire with ignition turned on?

No, ohm testing is done using the multimeters internal battery. Usually the lowest ohm setting is the one needed unless you know you're going through a resistance(like a light bulb).

Put one probe on the metal of the handlebar and the other will have to be touching the wires coming from the switches, so the switch pod/housing will need to be opened.

Some meters have a buzzer for continuity checks which is great when working by yourself so you don't have to keep looking at the display.

If external voltage is applied to a meter when it's in the continuity or ohm setting, a strong possibilty is there that the meter could be damaged/destroyed.....

Man wish I had the money I'd buy the old ones off you.

"Man wish I had the money I'd buy the old ones off you."

Make me an offer elf. I have no use for it. It just needs a little paint and it is good to go! I paid $150 for a Kawasaki replacement from the dealer! This one I would sell very reasonable to whomever could benefit from having it.