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Smallest Battery I can get for 78 KZ650?
- Lucid
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I'm kick start only btw. Headlight, tail, and igniter are about all that get power.
Let me know!
78 KZ650B Cafe
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- MFolks
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Motorcycle Batteries
www.yuasabatteries.com/
www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/12cell.html
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- dutchz
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1974 Kawasaki Z1
Stock front hub and rear axle.
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- otakar
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74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
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- Tbird232ci
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- loudhvx
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The next size up would be the one Dutch suggests. The one I commonly use on other people's bikes (who cannot use the capacitor) is the one from a Honda Spree 50cc scooter. You can get them at auto parts stores.
Basically, if you are kickstart-only, the battery is just acting as a big capacitor. Even if the battery is dead, it should still run. My friend used a dead Spree battery for years. It didn't have enough power to to even light the headlight by itself, but when he kicked it, it would start and run fine every time.
By the way, for anyone else reading this, the 77 KZ 650 cannot use the capacitor method... only 78 and up charging systems will work for that. The 77 will need the scooter battery at least (12v of course), or a later charging system.
As Tbird mentioned, there are the Li-Po type batteries. But their charging systems need to be a lot more precise, or they can catch fire. I don't have experience with them, but it's what I've heard. Maybe Bountyhunter can expand on that... he's worked with them.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- dutchz
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loudhvx wrote: As Tbird mentioned, there are the Li-Po type batteries. But their charging systems need to be a lot more precise, or they can catch fire. I don't have experience with them, but it's what I've heard. Maybe Bountyhunter can expand on that... he's worked with them.
I have been running the Ballistic battery which is a LiPo for over a month now without catching on fire :laugh:
I had some concerns myself but took the plunge after doing some research. I have rewired my bike from scratch a few years back and I have a modern reg/rec combo unit (some kind of ninja). No known charging issues. From what I understand these batteries are pretty tough so unless the reg/rec takes a crap it should be fine.
1974 Kawasaki Z1
Stock front hub and rear axle.
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- otakar
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74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
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- loudhvx
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So far so good, but it's only been a few months. When it's charged it cranks fast. I let it sit for a month with no trickle or anything, and it started, but was noticeably slower. After a short ride it was back to starting fast again.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- Lucid
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loudhvx wrote: The smallest would be no battery. That would have a capacitor in place of the battery. That's what I run on one of my 550's.
The next size up would be the one Dutch suggests. The one I commonly use on other people's bikes (who cannot use the capacitor) is the one from a Honda Spree 50cc scooter. You can get them at auto parts stores.
Basically, if you are kickstart-only, the battery is just acting as a big capacitor. Even if the battery is dead, it should still run. My friend used a dead Spree battery for years. It didn't have enough power to to even light the headlight by itself, but when he kicked it, it would start and run fine every time.
By the way, for anyone else reading this, the 77 KZ 650 cannot use the capacitor method... only 78 and up charging systems will work for that. The 77 will need the scooter battery at least (12v of course), or a later charging system.
As Tbird mentioned, there are the Li-Po type batteries. But their charging systems need to be a lot more precise, or they can catch fire. I don't have experience with them, but it's what I've heard. Maybe Bountyhunter can expand on that... he's worked with them.
What is this capacitor you speak of? Do you have any brands and/or reading material on it? Sounds like the simplest and smallest way to go.
78 KZ650B Cafe
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- otakar
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74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
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- loudhvx
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The 78 KZ 650 uses 1-phase, permanent-magnet alternator, so it can go without a battery. It's the smallest, lightest option, but maybe not the simplest.
The capacitor size you're looking for is anywhere from about 3000 to maybe 12,000 micro-Farad. That is usually abbreviated as uF or uFd. THe voltage rating needs to be 50v or higher. It will be electrolytic, so there is polarity. You hook it up just like a battery, but with smaller wires. I recommend the screw terminals.
The 78 650 has a 4-wire regulator/rectifier, with no voltage-sensor line. This means the capacitor can be hooked up with no other changes. Other KZ's with voltage sense lines need a slight wiring modification.
The bike will not start with any lights on. There must be a switch wired in for turning all lights and accesories off. This is because there is no energy stored in the capacitor for any length of time. One kick has to simultaneously charge the capacitor and power the ignition. I run a relay system to automatically turn the lights off any time the bike stops.
Because of this, a more efficient ignition makes it much easier to start. Points can work. Dyna S is harder to start, if at all. The factory electronic ignition is best for this.
Here's the big thing... the bike has to be pretty well tuned so it can almost always start in one kick with a battery. If not, then I would not get rid of the battery.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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