Bike is totally dead! No electrical power at all.

In fixing all my wiring issues successfully (so I thought) I put my bike all together and now I turn the key..NOTHING..no lights, no ignition, no blinkers, no horn. Nothing works. I cant believe this as it was working perfectly yesterday after cleaning all the connectors for the past few days and making all the bundles of wires neat. In between all this I was waiting for my gas tank sealer/liner to cure and put everything back together tonight. Battery is good. All the grounds and cables are good. I am at a loss. Even when I turned the ignition switch I always used to get a "click" from the wired george coil power mod. I don't even get that. Is this just a classic bad ignition switch???

Do you have a multimeter?

Yes I do. I will mess with it tomorrow. I am assuming I have to take the switch out.

Multi meter or test light, start at the battery and go through the main fuse, turn the key on, power from the switch back to the Ignition switched side of the fuse panel. have you got the Factory Manual, or a wiring diagram? Look here, use search, might get a free pdf version. Also lots of diagrams in the "Filebase" top right corner of the tool bar.

agreed motor head. i was saying multimeter because you can check for continuity that way, regardless of whether you have power. in any case i would think of the switch last... it worked fine, you had a bunch of electrical stuff apart, now nothing works... odds are something got left out or a wire was bad or something along the way and not that the switch just happened to quit, although it is possible

OK Figured it out! It was the main fuse. Visually the fuse looked perfect but when I put the multimeter to the fuse it was dead. I take the old fuse out and the metal contact and the glass tube were separated in the fuse holder but couldn't tell just by looking at it. I did find a wiring diagram and tested the ignition switch first from the plug and it checked out OK so I went right to the fuses after. I am going to try to find a more modern fuse block from the auto parts store or Radio Shack and see if I could figure that out. I believe these fuses were the original fuses from 1978. Thanks again for all your help guys.

glad you figured it out.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.
9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net/store/6!way-fuse-blocks/p_10822.a_1

10. A source for the glass tubed AGX fuses:
www.boatownerswarehouse.com/browse.cfm/2,4986.html