RH controls: start button

I was trying to hunt down a no start issue today on my project 1983 kz550 spectre, it ran this morning. But after some jostling and adjustment of the handlebar controls it wouldn't do anything when I hit the starter button.
So I decided to open up the RH starter button control and see if something had come loose inside and work backwards to the solenoid. The switch's solders disintegrated when I opened it up.
SO,
Can I repair the switch? (its in as many pieces as it can be right now)
Can I get an OEM one for less than an arm and a leg?
Could I whip up something temporary using the wiring diagram?
What other switches would fit?


I guess I'll get back to the starting issue after I get a new switch.
(Solenoid is good, turns over when I arc across)

www.redlinecycle.com should have a right handlebar switch pod that will work. Also look here:
www.kandstech.com/index.php?page=switchescontrols

Do you think another kawasaki starter like this could work?
93 kawasaki ninja 250 ex250 start kill stop switch RH
Thanks.

It might work, as Kawasaki tries to use parts on several bikes to keep costs down. If you don't have one, go out and buy an inexpensive multimeter as you're going to need one for future troubleshooting.

Lowes,Home Depot,Sears & Radio Shack Stores sell multimeters thast will work for your needs.

MFolks wrote: It might work, as Kawasaki tries to use parts on several bikes to keep costs down. If you don't have one, go out and buy an inexpensive multimeter as you're going to need one for future troubleshooting.

Lowes,Home Depot,Sears & Radio Shack Stores sell multimeters thast will work for your needs.

yup, thats on my list.

I think im going to try and re-solder the switch myself. But the red/yellow and red both came un-soldered. They connect right next to each other. Do you know if anyone has a picture of the wiring inside the switch?
(note to future self ALWAYS photograph wiring before disassembly.)

For a good solder joint, you're going to need some Rosin flux to clean the connections. I'd imagine a lot of corrosion is on the copper/brass parts the wires attach to.

I like using a paste type of rosin flux, although the liquid flux has it's purpose too.

Do not use Acid flux as it will over time corrode what you just repaired. To prevent the wire insulation from damage when the wires are heated, use either a hemostat or a pair of needle nose pliers with a rubber band across the handle holding it together to act like a heatsink.

A low wattage soldering iron is the best for small wires like this, I'd say 25 watts will work well, or if you have an adjustable type that the heat can be turned down to avoid insulation damage.

After soldering, take some 70% rubbing alcohol and scrub the freshly soldered joints to remove any flux from the electrical contacts. I use a cut down acid brush to scrub flux residue away. The spray flux remover will work for this too.

Dried rosin flux can act like an insulator on these switch contacts, so clean throughly & then do an electrical check before closing up the switch housing.

If you've never soldered small wires, it's important to have on hand either a damp rag or damp sponge to wipe the soldering iron's tip on for a good solder joint. "Tinning" the soldering iron's tip, is a way of putting a thin layer of melted solder for maximum heat transfer when you get ready to solder.

I use 60/40 rosin core solder(it means the ratio of lead to tin) for all my electrical soldering on my bike. It's getting harder to locate as most solder now meets the ROHS specs, but some electonics stores may still have some in stock. Also before doing any soldering, wash your hands to remove the skin oils and take some rubbing alcohol and clean about 4-6" of the solder on the roll, this makes for a better solder joint when heated.

Any further soldering questions? Don't be afraid to ask.....

I don't know if they're the same but Z1 enterprises has a european type switch (run-off, lights on-off and starter button) for a kz 1000 for about $42