No spark.

So I've been trying to figure out why I'm not getting any spark on my 81 KZ650 CSR. I fixed an issue I had with my main fuse overheating so much it was melting the fuse box, followed the wire from the main fuse to a connector wrapped in electrical tape that was pretty much melted, and now I'm trying to figure out the spark issue.
We trimmed the end of the spark plug wires because they looked a little corroded, and that didn't help. Probably also doesn't help that one of the wires has to pretty much be taped on because the screw-on cap for one of the wires is from the original coil and is too small for the coil that the previous owner put on when he had a similar issue and thought the old one was bad.




The guy helping me was trying to check the voltage and resistance of the coils but I really don't think he knew what he was doing either, so I didn't really get any information from him that would be helpful. I'll try and do that again next time I'm out working on the bike. While we were checking to see if the wires going to the coils were even getting power, we found one that wasn't. The green wire in the picture below that goes into the left coil wasn't getting any power, and we have no idea where that wire comes from.




If it helps, the bike was running before I did some work on it. I replaced the chain, the rear sprocket(front sprocket is stuck and I can't get it off with any tools available to me), took off the exhaust pipes and cleaned them up, removed the spark plugs and checked them(one of them broke when I was taking it out and I replaced it with a new one). If any of these things interfered with my spark, I would assume it would be the removal of the spark plugs but I don't see how that would cause me to just stop getting spark altogether. Any insight into this problem would be greatly appreciated as I clearly have no idea what I'm doing.

First it you go into FileBase here at the upper right corner or the toolbar header, you will find this wiring diagram. kzrider.com/filebase/cat_view/100-1981/161-kawasaki-kz-650-h1
Then this other coil, looks Automotive, could be the wrong resistance to work with the Kawasaki Electronic Ignition. Possibly causing Ignitor failure. Do you have a service manual, as it will have all the testing of each part of the system. Then a decent Volt Ohm Meter, DVOM, which means digital. An Analog one will be fine as well. There would be a very good chance that there is a kink to a Factory Service Manual somewhere here on KZR. So if you don't have one use the search box to try to locate one, or Google search with the manual and KZR in the text. That will get you a link back here.
I would be shopping for 2 replacement coils, and this is a great place to get them. www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=KM000

I have a Clymer manual, I just don't think the person helping me knew what they were doing when they tested the resistance and I had no idea either. I'm not sure if its a problem with the coils as I remember the previous owner mentioning a similar problem, and they thought it was the coils too and when he had that one replaced it didn't fix the problem. I forget how he fixed it and I've been looking all over for the guys numbers to ask him. I still have the original coil he replaced but I didn't know if I should bother trying to put that one back on.

Anytime you see an ignition coil that has the ridges on the sparkplug wiring going to the ignition coils it means they are of the type that will unscrew from the coil. Inside the cap/terminals should be a small black plastic cone and a rubber seal. The coil will have a brass spike inside the terminal to pierce the insulation of the sparkplug wires.

Here's how the ignition coil wiring should be. Your bikes wiring for the coils is toward the bottom of this procedure.

Ignition Coil Primary And Secondary Wiring

Ignition coils on the 80’s Kz1000,Kz1100’s and Gpz1100’s are wired the same, that is as you sit on the bike, the LEFT ignition coil primary(small wires) are two wires, RED and BLACK. The secondary (or sparkplug wires) go to #1 and #4 sparkplugs(your primary wiring may be different).

The cylinders are numbered left to right as you sit on the seat; #1,#2,#3, and #4.

For the RIGHT ignition coil, the primary wires, again are two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary going to #2 and #3.

The RED wire gets it’s voltage from the run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod.

The BLACK and GREEN wires connect to the IC Igniter(if the bike has the Kawasaki supplied electronic ignition) it actually gives the coils their grounds to fire the sparkplugs.

Primary(small wires) side of the coils will read between 1.8 to 3.0 ohms.

Secondary(sparkplug wire ports)side of the coil will read between 10.4K to 15.6K ohms. These ports are wired together, so it makes no difference which is used, as long as the correct coil to sparkplug configuration is followed.

The sparkplug caps should read 5K OHMS, any higher, or a reading of infinity means new caps should be ordered.

To stress the ignition coils, take a hair dryer, heat the coils and see if the ohm readings change from cold to hot . If they do, it’s time to buy new coils.

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Keep in mind, the wiring is reversed for the 550’s 650‘s and 750‘s, that is the RIGHT coil primary will be two wires, RED and BLACK with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #1 and #4.

The LEFT coils primary wiring would be again two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #2 and #3.

These engines have what is known as a “Wasted Spark” that is, a sparkplug will fire during an exhaust stroke. It does no damage and many other motorcycle engines have this design.

Thanks a lot MFolks! Now I know what that green wire goes too. I can see me not getting a spark from that coil if it wasn't grounded properly. Is one of the wires for the other coil a ground also?

Does your bike hae the Kawaski supplied electronic ignition or the older points style? To find out,on the right side of the engine, there should be a CD sized cover. Behind it will be either pulsing coil pickups or ignition points. Post back with your findings...

Mjolnir613 wrote: Thanks a lot MFolks! Now I know what that green wire goes too. I can see me not getting a spark from that coil if it wasn't grounded properly. Is one of the wires for the other coil a ground also?

Kawasaki electronic ignition (i.c. igniter and pick-up modules)---
With ignition switch ON, each ignition coil receives battery ++ at one primary terminal. Its other primary terminal is wired through the igniter where it is repeatedly grounded (coil charges) and ungrounded (coil fires through its secondary wiring, looping through its two plug wires).

Points or Dyna-S electronic ignition ---
With ignition switch ON, each ignition coil receives battery ++ at one primary terminal. Its other primary terminal is wired through the points or Dyna-S module where it is repeatedly grounded (coil charges) and ungrounded (coil fires through its secondary wiring, looping through its two plug wires).


Good Fortune!

The ignition coils are wired usually this way: A Red or Red/Yellow wire comes from the run/stop switch on the right handle bar. This switch gets it's power source from the ignition switch when it's on.

The Red wire goes to both ignition coils, while the Black wire goes to either the IC Igniter of the ignition points.

The Green wire goes to the other ignition coil from again, the IC Igniter or the points.

The term "IC Igniter" is actually wrong as it gives the ignition coils their ground, firing the sparkplugs. I'ts not a CDI as some people think.

I think in a previous thread when I mentioned this issue Martin_CSR mentioned the bike doesn't have points, since I have the same bike as him.

Been a while since I was able to get out to the bike, a mixture of bad weather and changing jobs kept me inside or pretty busy, but I got out to the bike to try and work some things out today. I think I made some progress in figuring out whats the problem! Last month I got out there with the crappy digital multimeter we have and checked the coils, it didn't exactly have the settings the book told me to use(it had settings like 2X, 20X, etc.) but I got some readings on one of those settings that was consistent with what the book said I should get. Where the notebook is that I wrote this stuff down in, well, I'm still looking for it. I also took the IC Igniter off and cleaned up the connections as best I could.




Today I decided to go out and take off the side cover and see if I may have pinched any wires when I was messing around in there when I put on the new chain, and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Checked the stator, and nothing looked out of place or fried there. I read somewhere that tapping on the igniter could make it temporarily work if it was going bad, so I gave it a few taps with a wrench and didn't have any luck with that. My grandfather, my mother's boyfriend, and myself were all out there stumped what to do next. We had the igniter out laying on the frame, and when it was moved we could here a crackling electrical noise, so I checked the plugs and found that if the igniter was touching a couple bolts on the frame it would spark through the plugs. I don't know if this means the igniter is good or not, but it seems that power is getting through the coils and wires just fine.

Now, of the four wires coming out of the larger of the connectors on the igniter 3 of them are getting power, and 4th(a black one with yellow stipes) is not. Is that a ground wire thats not supposed to get any power? Also, the small connector that looks like it goes down to the condenser doesn't seem to be getting any power at all. I recall reading somewhere that its possible with a Dyna S ignition system you bypass the igniter completely, does anyone know if this is true? Lastly, is there anyone living in SE Mass with experience with issues like this? The closest bike shop I know refuses to work on old bikes, and the ones I know that do charge an arm and a leg for labor.


No spark when trying to start it.


These are the sparks that it made when the igniter touched the frame.

If possible, ohm check the pickup(pulsing) coils:

Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(under a right side CD sized cover) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of 2K, check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS. The 550’s,650’s & 750’s may be backwards to the Z1’s,Kz900’s,Kz1000’s & Kz1100’s.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6. Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.

7.Check the small 4 pin connector that the pickup coils connect to for corrosion/loose pins too.

These are the pickup coils right? I checked these last month but honestly didn't really know what it was or what to look for if anything went bad.







I should be able to get out there to check this weekend, weather permitting, and I'll make sure to check all of those things.