Low Voltage at coils

77 KZ1000 LTD - Dyna CDI, Stock coils

I have 12.8 volts at the battery, and it seems that at every connection along the way to the coils the voltage just drops a bit more till it is low enough that the bike will not run. I have cleaned the connections and greased them hoping to reduce resistance... but still just not enough...

To make sure it is the problem I ran a wire directly from the positive terminal to the Y under the tank... Fired right up with a nice spark.

My plan is to use a relay and supply power to the coils and cdi directly from the battery.... unless there is a better way...

Recommendations?

Thanks
Adam

Did you clean the start and run/stop switch in the right handlebar switch pod? I believe the Red/Yellow or Red wire goes to the coils. Checked the connector inside the headlight housing too?

I guess I should have mentioned that this is a bike I pulled from a shed and has been sitting for ~3yrs. Bought it for $Free.50 tho

I have not pulled the stop/run switch apart on the handlebar, I will do that and check/clean it. Good thinking, Thanks.

I did check the ignition switch connection behind the headlight. the connector looked like it had been hot, but I could not measure resistance thru the connector, nor was there a voltage drop on either side of the connector so I decided the discoloration was cause from a hot headlamp? Also, I resistance checked the ignition switch and also looked for a voltage drop thru the ignition switch and it was OK.

Thanks!
Adam

The way most of the older Kawasaki's are wired, is having the run/stop switch kill voltage going to the coils by turning off the switch. The Red or Red/Yellow wire is spliced so both coils get that side of the ignition voltage. If you have a Radio Shack store, get some De-oxit contact cleaner/preservative as it will clean oxide from electrical contacts and switches.

It's kind of pricey($15 for 2 cans) but good stuff.



Why WD-40 Should Not Be Used On Motorcycle Electrical Items.

For many years, I was proponent of the use of WD-40 on fuse clips, fuses, switches and connectors. After hearing of other peoples experience with intermittent and sporadic activity, I shrugged it off as maybe they did something wrong in the application of the product.

It wasn’t until the time I rode my 1982 GPz1100 B2 model to downtown San Diego that I encountered the problems others had gone through.

After concluding my business downtown, I walked to where my bike was parked, turned the key to unlock the forks, and prepared to start the engine. The key was in the "On" position, yet I had no lights in the dash panel, the fuel pump was not running(I have FI), and the horn and tail light were not working.


Puzzled as to why nothing electrical was happening, I remember my earlier conversations about how WD-40 will over time become a non-conductor(more like an insulator). I had some pieces of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in my tool kit and with them was able to scratch away the coating from the WD-40 on the fuses and clips.

After removing the insulating film, the bike started and ran like it should. Since that time, I’ve told people about the problem with WD-40. If you must use a contact cleaner, I recommend getting some "De-oxit" from Radio Shack Stores or any good electronic supply store.

I have never used De-Oxit, I will have to get that and try it. I have always used moly grease heh.

I just went out to pull the switch off the handle bars and the screws are seized and I could not get vice grips on them so that may require a bit of engineering to resolve that.. I may just resistance and voltage check if the switch is an issue from the bullet connectors under the tank.

I will report later what I find.


I was reading about people doing a wire around for the ignition system, but have not been able to find the link to exactly what they are talking about.. Is it something other than using a relay?

Thanks
Adam

Get either Kroil or PB Blaster & spray the screws for the handlebar switch housing. Let it soak for a day or so. When re-installing new screws, put a little silver anti-seize on the first few threads as this will make it easier to remove next time.I use it on all of my engine case screws,the first few threads of sparkplugs, and the rear axle.

Go to www.wgcarbs.com on his home page he describes how to use a relay to go around corroded electrical wiring and conectors. Some people love it, others, not so much as they think of it as a band-ade for other problems.